Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

> Guys I was just wondering whether it is worth putting a factory turbo on my

> GTS R33?

No it's not

> The turbo is free btw....What are the pros and cons

Possiblity of:

- Different fuel pump

- Different manifold (no direct bolt on I dont think)

- Different ECU (Car Computer)

- Install intercooler (factory one is ok)

- Brake Upgrade

Albet the 33 GTS is a fine tuned N/A car its not feasible for direct bolt on. Much better to sell and get a stock GTST. Cuts out the hassles of ECU, Fuel maps/sensors etc which can affected as soon as you Turbocharge it.

> after affects of performance etc

Higher fuel usage. Faster acceleration. Induction sound. BOV sound.

Much higher kw at the flywheel and wheels. GTST stock is 187 at the flywheel, I think the R33 N/A is around 90kw at the flywheel.

My Advice, drive a friends GTST and then go buy one :P

Seriously, you can spend $5k to turbo yours properly and it wont have the same resale value as GTST as its been converted

Same argument VL N/A upgrade to VL Turbo.

Other things different between the two models:

-N/A brakes are TERRIBLE and not SAFE for Turbo conversion (well the VL ones aren't)

-N/A ECU would be shit as (the rb30 n/a ECU that is)

In the "turbo" forums people ask the similar question:

> Should I go the RB26 upgrade for my GTST?

The short answer is no unless you want something specific. Some people think if you get a GTST and swap engine for an RB26 that its worth almost as much as a GTR. Theres many more features in the GTR that yours wont have. Brakes/ECU/Fuelpump/Intercooler etc are some of them. If you wanna just wanna run two turbos then no. If you wanna stroke it, cams, pistons, ecu, apexi powerfc, single high mount turbo etc.... and u want 800bhp then yes RB26, else no as you'll have hardcore traction problems.

Hope this helps a little. Bu all means get some quotes but youll probably find its not worth it as it wont have a much higher resale value as its still a GTS

Guys I was just wondering whether it is worth putting a factory turbo on my GTS R33? The turbo is free btw....What are the pros and cons....after affects of performance etc? Ta.

i agree with paulr33. its either you get a new front cut and do your conversion from there or dun even bother at all. at the end of the day, the cost and hassle is too much work... a conversion is still highly recommended than a bolt-on UNLESS your internals are already built for it... such as the NA supras that came with forge pistons already ...

Haha sorry for the low figures. I realise my estimate was way out :P All in all it is probably better and cheaper and more cost effective in regards to economy of scale to sell yours and a GTST instead. But each to their own

Some prefer to do the upgrade themselves (from N/A to T) and learn along the way etc. Just remember its not a simple as bolt on turbo, start engine and your off. There are lots of other factors to be done as metioned above.

If your going to do, do it properly (this is where the main cost comes from) and upgrade everything else as you will need it

Im pretty sure, not 100%. I know all the fuel maps and airflow ratings will change as your engine is use to say x amount of air flow and it will now get say x + 300 of airflow. Could even max out your stock airflow meter. Not sure if they are different between N/A and T

Also engine compression could be a problem as rb25de and rb25det have different compression levels

meaing when you bolt on your T it could be affect the engine and youll be restricted to a low boost level, like 6psi max.

Ask in the forced induction forum about ecu change if you bolt on a on turbo to rb25de

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...