Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could never in my life own a Commodore, the R32 Gtst was the first car I ever bought and will be the last car I ever own.

I would not even notice giving up 1000rpm to lag as it starts pulling hard from about 2300 with the current standard turbo, and as you said, 4 grand to the limit is where the fun starts. I would rather the car have more than what I will be using just not to really stress any part of the chain of parts, so say if my final power figure is 300hp I want the parts capable of doing 350hp, just so everything isnt stressed or running at its limits.

I'm not chasing punch in the face power when I put my foot down but more of a user friendly power curve. I would love to go the Mines route of builds i.e not excessive power but the tune and the general setup and and parts used make for a very quick responsive ride.

so your saying youve never owned, or will own, anything but your r32??

have a bit of fun with your 32, but you need to experience (and i dont mean a quick drive) all that many other cars have to offer before you can decide if one is right for you.. i love my r32.. and im having fun building it.. but im glad i owned 2 V8 holdens to really appreciate how good skylines are.

Spent alot of time in many other cars, some faster some than handle better but I would still prefer my R32, Had a hold of a 430rwhp 2005 BS XR8 for 2 months but still loved the R32 more. Even though the Xr8 was much faster and a better ride.

But as far as owning cars goes...the R32 is it. I have a Yamaha R6 but thats just silly fast after the build.

Some people have lambos and Zondas as their 'dream' car. Mine is the R32 Skyline.

I'm in the same boat... I've had my 32 for 11 years now, and I can't see myself replacing it.

Thats how I feel man and I've only had my baby for 2 years, I dont see what I would want other than the 32, Timeless style, a impressive heritage behind them and you cant beat the sound of the RB's screaming onto boost.

I'm in the same boat... I've had my 32 for 11 years now, and I can't see myself replacing it.

11 years?!!? sheeesh i reckon you must have pretty much replaced everything in the car by now haha

respect

ive got a r32 rb20 with hks2530. Pushing 210kw atw @ 15psi

Full boost comes in around 3800rpm.

11 years?!!? sheeesh i reckon you must have pretty much replaced everything in the car by now haha

respect

ive got a r32 rb20 with hks2530. Pushing 210kw atw @ 15psi

Full boost comes in around 3800rpm.

I also have an RB20 running a HKS2530, 210kw @16psi on a very tired engine. Just make sure you upgrade your fuel system and intercooler and you should get similar results.

11 years?!!? sheeesh i reckon you must have pretty much replaced everything in the car by now haha

respect

ive got a r32 rb20 with hks2530. Pushing 210kw atw @ 15psi

Full boost comes in around 3800rpm.

Yeah the only things I can think of that are still original (from 1991) aside from the chassis, are the gearbox, boot, rear bar, fuel tank, doors, glass, carpet, dash, headlights and foglights.

11 years?!!? sheeesh i reckon you must have pretty much replaced everything in the car by now haha

respect

ive got a r32 rb20 with hks2530. Pushing 210kw atw @ 15psi

Full boost comes in around 3800rpm.

Any chance of a bit of a write up on what you currently have done to your baby?

(like another import owner needs an excuse to give a detailed list of mods :down: )

I know you weren't talking to me but this might help.

Unopened RB20DET

HKS2530

GTR Injectors

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Z32 AFM

Cooling Pro Intercooler

210rwkw on 16psi, not run on shootout mode so not sure how it compares to other dynos.

Full boost around 3800-4000rpm depending on when foot goes flat to the floor.

Any chance of a bit of a write up on what you currently have done to your baby?

(like another import owner needs an excuse to give a detailed list of mods :down: )

- Rebuilt HKS2530 Series 2 turbo

- ARC SideMount Intercooler

- R32 GTR Fuel Pump

- r32 GTR Cleaned injectors with new seals

- GTR Resistor Ballast

- Batmbl (Bos Importing) Stainless steel split front/dump pipe

- xforce hiflow cat

- Apexi catback

- z32 AFM

- Splitfire Coilpacks

- Nistune Ecu tuned by Status Tuning (208.9kw atw @ 15psi with 11.5afr)

thanks man, is that the daily run tune or the result just for the dyno run?

Also love the Drift Teks in the siggy (at least I think they are drift teks), then again they could be Rota P45R's or something else I cant think of.

What the offset on them? They look very nice like that.

(Sorry for al the questions guys, just trying to get as much info on everything before I start laying down more cash)

thanks man, is that the daily run tune or the result just for the dyno run?

Also love the Drift Teks in the siggy (at least I think they are drift teks), then again they could be Rota P45R's or something else I cant think of.

What the offset on them? They look very nice like that.

(Sorry for al the questions guys, just trying to get as much info on everything before I start laying down more cash)

they are neither. They are Uras NS-01, drifteks and rota's are some china spec quality. I like to think uras (being a jap company) put more effort in the quality haha

They are 8inch +30 on front and 9inch +30 on rear

Its my daily run tune, quite safe as its low boost and 11.5afr.

Ah another sick looking 5 spoke to put onto my list lol

ATM I'm looking at the ever popular R33 GTR rims, I dont want anything over 17 inch and as far as I know they fit in perfect without any clearance issues, Not sure of the exact offset of them, Ive read a heap of differnt numbers from +22 to +30

Thankts Kwyjibo, seems like a very good result from reading the RB20 Turbo thread. Hows the cooling pro FMIC treating you? and would you happen to know what the duty cycle of the GTR injectors were on that run.

Yeah I can't complain, its quite good to drive. The FMIC has been fine for my purposes, was easy to install as well. We had some knocking issues that we thought were due to heatsoak but have now eliminated that as a problem. I think injector duty hits around 70% at full load/high revs.

I should also note I have an HKS dump pipe and Power FC.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...