Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

will this fit my N/A r34 sedan??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/WALBRO-FUEL-PUMP-Ni...=item23059f8795

also would 550cc injectors work well??

will the injectors that are labeled as "turbo" ones fit my n/a??

i know sfa about this sort of this so any info would be great!!!

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310055-will-this-fit-my-r34/
Share on other sites

why do you want 550cc injectors for your NA? do you have an aftermarket ECU to run them?

and that wlabro pump looks too cheap to be genuine

lol took the words right out of my mouth.

Edited by PSI-FED

may i ask why you want to upgrade them? is the old pump failing? if not then don't bother. neither a bigger fuel pump nor injectors will give you a power increase. unless you have a hell of a lot of work done (such as having a turbo fitted) then there is no need as you won't even be close to maxing out the stock ones.

Does seem a bit cheap for a Walbro. A Walbro GSS342 should be a direct replacement (done it on my R34 GT for the turbo conversion) but as mentioned already, why do you need bigger pump and injectors?

GTT Injectors are a straight swap on an RB25DE NEO. iirc they are around 370cc? which is enough for me to run a turbo at around 10-12PSI on 10:1 CR. Unless your looking to rebuild your engine, put on a big turbo, one that would even require ditching the factory AFM... you're not going to need those size injectors and even then a Walbro GSS342 is good for 500HP (or is it 550)? nuff said though, spend the money elsewhere unless this is part of a major upgrade :)

well im thinking of getting an APEXI fc +hand controller for my car... thats the reasoning behind it..

also anyone know who/where i can source one of these apparently they have been discontinued for the ER34's ?

Apexi Power FC should be fine as the car is manual and no longer needs the auto shift logic, and your replacing the ECU, not running a piggy back.

What are your long-term plans with the car? You would at least want to be working on the internals, upgraded camshafts, port polish, raise compression etc... to really take advantage of 550CC Injectors, bigger pump and a PowerFC... The cost of the PowerFC + Tuning = not worth it unless your at least fitting a snail

In that case buy your parts, but wait till your ready for it all to be put together before you start playing around with ECU's injectors and pumps. Only because it's unnecessary costs in labour and tuning, only to be retuned on the turbo conversion.

So to answer your question, a Walbro GSS342 is a direct replacement fuel pump, and R34 GTT Injectors will be a direct replacement, and will be plenty unless you want to go all out rebuilding your engine for higher horse power. Unless your able to get R34 550CC injectors at a really good price that's hard to pass up, then go for it, otherwise just stick with good 2nd hand GTT Injectors and you should be fine :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...