Jump to content
SAU Community

Power FC Tuners - Promech in Richmond???


Recommended Posts

I know a few people who were not impressed with his services, but then again sometimes you can't please everybody.....

One bloke who knows his GTR's is definetly Ben from Racepace motorsport.... that's pretty much all he works on!!!

Cheers

I know a few people who were not impressed with his services, but then again sometimes you can't please everybody.....

One bloke who knows his GTR's is definetly Ben from Racepace motorsport.... that's pretty much all he works on!!!

Cheers

Thanks Jag,

I know of ben, & believe the boys at ICE are close with him aswell, I think they also use his dyno. I have had some minor work done by ICE & been very happy so far.

Yeah the boys from Ice have done work on my car before, very impressed with their work (both quality and price). I'm getting a Power FC in the next week or so and taking it straight to Ben's to install and tune.....

Ben and ICE are the best GTR mechanics and tuners in Melbourne. That is a fact. They are the only people I would trust to work on my car and do a great job and at a fair price. Something i think a lot of other mechanics forget when you mention the three letters G, T and R.

"OH you have a GTR.......Thats gunna cost eleventy Thousand" :P

Did i hear that Promech are the Official HKS distributor for Victoria?

Promech.....rude and has absolutely no customer service at all.

My cousin was after a HKS BOV adaptor and rang BD4s in Sydney and was told to see Vince from Promech. I went down with him and I just couldnt believe the way he approached us. Basically it was "what do you want, this is how much it is. Take it or get lost!" He needed the adaptor asap so we did end up buying it off him. It came from Sydney anyway so I dont know why BD4s couldnt send it. Then Promech wanted to charge postage from Richmond out to my cousins house, we asked him why couldnt you get BD4s to send it direct, since we paid in full, he replied "thats how we do it" We will never give him business again.

I saw the guy at promech determine that a car had overheated due to having run very low on coolant. He went to a tap, filled a watering can with COLD water and proceeded to fill the car up.

When the car wouldn't start he immediately determined that it must have a cracked head due to overheating

umm... couldn't have had anything to do with the fact that you just poured cold water into an overheated engine could it?

Turns out the car had just gone into limp home mode, when it cooled down, it started fine luckily for the owner.

Guest INASNT
I saw the guy at promech determine that a car had overheated due to having run very low on coolant. He went to a tap, filled a watering can with COLD water and proceeded to fill the car up.

When the car wouldn't start he immediately determined that it must have a cracked head due to overheating

umm... couldn't have had anything to do with the fact that you just poured cold water into an overheated engine could it?

Turns out the car had just gone into limp home mode, when it cooled down, it started fine luckily for the owner.

that sounds like someone you would trust with your car. NOT

Promech.....rude and has absolutely no customer service at all. I just couldnt believe the way he approached us. Basically it was "what do you want, this is how much it is. Take it or get lost!"

Your not the first to say that... I was also told something similar.

I used to use Promech, but the guy just pissed me around so much - once left my car with him for a week with a list of 5 relatively easy things to investigate / fix. When I picked it up, he'd done nothing that I asked for.

Mate had a R33 GT-R, the engine blew a turbo and required a full rebuild. That took the better part of 6 months! Then later he found that the turbos had not been installed properly, with 1 opening the wastegate way ahead of the other.

There was also a problem with tuning a plug-in ECU, can't remember which one - might have been a Link -, but Vince couldn't tune it so he pressured the guy to buy an APEXi (I think). Later, 'Eric' managed to easily re-tune the original plug-in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...