Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I want to change the silly looking rubber inlet pipe, that goes from the AFM to the turbo. I have the stock air box in (cut out underneath), and want to keep it.

Are there metal replacements? Better rubber ones?

If it was metal I should be able to get some good cooler spool, yeah?

I have ebayed and googled but can't find anything :laugh: - except those blue silicone ones - any opinions on them anyone?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Bobby.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310582-inlet-pipe/
Share on other sites

yeh i've been trying to find one but i cant seem to find any... at the moment im using a metal intake pipe from autobhan88 or something.. there ok for highboost im currently on 17psi so yeh its not bad, but im sure you can get one customised

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310582-inlet-pipe/#findComment-5115955
Share on other sites

Custom made should cost around $250

I agree. By the time you cost the alloy/stainless, silicone joiners, clamps, return pipe fitting and heat wrap, there wouldnt be much change left and thats not including the 2 to 3 hours spent on it, I know because I have been making custom inductions on the side for a while now.

You could just go to autobarn and make it up from their range if you want a bit cheaper, unless you can get mates rates from a fabricator like gfunkk. :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310582-inlet-pipe/#findComment-5116166
Share on other sites

the thing is you can get them custom made for about $100-$150 so no companies really bother making them, just take it to your local garage and say you want a custom one made

bahahahaha

Hospital grade stainless not the crap shops normally use. this included clamps and new silicon joiners

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310582-inlet-pipe/#findComment-5116357
Share on other sites

If you want to make one and cant weld than its a combination of a 90 degree bend from the turbo then another 45 degree bend on the endof that and you can silicon joiner them together in the middle but yeah looking at around 100buxforall the parts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310582-inlet-pipe/#findComment-5118503
Share on other sites

As a guide. I just had a 3" piece of stainless made up with fittings welded on for BOV return and Breather line. Also had the pipe between turbo outlet and intercooler inlet remade out of 2.5" stainless.

I paid $140 (inc parts and labor) for both stainless sections.

So for the sake of it the rubber intake part would have cost roughly $50-60 to make out of a straight piece of stainless. I connected this up using 2 Silicon elbows (AFM side and Turbo side) they were about $60-70 ish each.

So to recreate this section in 3" / 75mm (this size suits my new turbo). Total cost about $200 keeping in mind I'll be installing it myself.

You will still need to add the price of reconnecting the BOV return and Breather lines, however price will vary exponentially from cheap hose to Braided line with suitable fittings so I wont mention this bit

Hope that helps.

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310582-inlet-pipe/#findComment-5118720
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...