Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

QWK32 - i have a copy of the software yes..

mods are

HKS GTR-s

front mount

3" exhaust

greddy boost controller

the guy before me had haltech on it but i saw alot of advantages to the nistune so i went that way..

i have acopy of all the base maps aswell, is there some things i can do to that to help things?

i also have a apexi turbo timer which outputs the AFR'S, as soon as you touch the accelerator at 60k's it goes from 14.5 to 10.5 or even 10.0 sometimes..

thanks again

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

QWK32 - i have a copy of the software yes..

mods are

HKS GTR-s

front mount

3" exhaust

greddy boost controller

the guy before me had haltech on it but i saw alot of advantages to the nistune so i went that way..

i have acopy of all the base maps aswell, is there some things i can do to that to help things?

i also have a apexi turbo timer which outputs the AFR'S, as soon as you touch the accelerator at 60k's it goes from 14.5 to 10.5 or even 10.0 sometimes..

thanks again

don't pay any attention to the apexi timer reading. the stock narrowband O2 sensor can't be trusted with any value apart from ~14.7, even then i'd doubt its accuracy. if your getting a reading in the 10's on the pen timer, it could really be a value anywhere from say 10-13.

what tune do you currently have on the ecu, stock maps? on the stock maps it will run rich once on boost even with the GT-RS. i suppose you could take a bit out of the high rpm, high load part of the fuel table, but without getting a wideband O2 sensor to check it you wouldn't know if you've taken too much out. do you have access to a wideband O2 sensor?

also i'd be interested to see if you coming close to the limits of the stock AFM, what boost are you running? link up to the ecu with the software and open the timing map, then watch the map tracer to see how close to the right hand side of the map it goes when you rev it out under load. ideally you don't want it to hit the last row of cells. also check the fuel map, it has a smaller load scale than the timing map so you can run off the edge earlier than you will on the timing map.

flippin' heck

i thought you could get Nisstune's for all Stags. i was looking forward to putting one in my S1 later this year :P

you can, but you have to be willing to chop and rewire your ecu loom to a Z32 ecu plug so you can use a Z32 ecu.

don't know if this would work, just an idea. but could you replace the stagea engine loom with a late model R33 engine loom? engines are the same so electrical plugs should be the same. probably have to splice in a few wires that go to other areas of the car, should be an issue though. then you could easily run a Z32 Nistune ecu without having to hackup, identify, and rewire the stagea loom.

don't pay any attention to the apexi timer reading. the stock narrowband O2 sensor can't be trusted with any value apart from ~14.7, even then i'd doubt its accuracy. if your getting a reading in the 10's on the pen timer, it could really be a value anywhere from say 10-13.

what tune do you currently have on the ecu, stock maps? on the stock maps it will run rich once on boost even with the GT-RS. i suppose you could take a bit out of the high rpm, high load part of the fuel table, but without getting a wideband O2 sensor to check it you wouldn't know if you've taken too much out. do you have access to a wideband O2 sensor?

also i'd be interested to see if you coming close to the limits of the stock AFM, what boost are you running? link up to the ecu with the software and open the timing map, then watch the map tracer to see how close to the right hand side of the map it goes when you rev it out under load. ideally you don't want it to hit the last row of cells. also check the fuel map, it has a smaller load scale than the timing map so you can run off the edge earlier than you will on the timing map.

i have stock maps loaded, no tune has been done since the board was fitted... don't have access to wideband.

using stock afm atm but i have a z32 ready to go (wiring is all sorted just needs to be plugged in). next part sounds like too much effort!! lol

i have no idea once it comes to the tuning side of things so yeah, i friend works at a workshop that has just signed up with nistune so i might just get them to tune it for me.

  • 1 year later...

I am trying to find. Who in sydney does nistunes and has had heaps of expirence and has a 4wd dyno

Someone has recommended CRD for tuning. And I do believe they have a 'special' offer in their business thread on these forums.

But I've never done this before so....

I am trying to find. Who in sydney does nistunes and has had heaps of expirence and has a 4wd dyno

Unigroup.

Either get them to drop the front driveshaft or drop it yourself.

If they are happy to let it on the dyno with the little green plug pulled then you can go that way.

I would strongly suggest using them.

Unigroup.

Either get them to drop the front driveshaft or drop it yourself.

If they are happy to let it on the dyno with the little green plug pulled then you can go that way.

I would strongly suggest using them.

i want unigroup to do it but i am a fusy prick and i want it done in 4wd. Unigroup know envy performance and they have a 4wd dyno and sometimes use it so i am trying to see what i can hook up.

What difference does a 4WD dyno make? Nearly 100% of the time your car peddles around on the rear wheels.

If Yavuz uses the Envy dyno it will be for cars that does allow easy 2WD mode.

Best bet is to give them a call and see what they say.

I paid extra for a 4wd dyno once but then thought why did I do that ? There is no point whatsoever fussy or not. Just drop the front driveshaft and pull the fuse and the 2wd dyno will do just as well. The only difference is you will get a rwd power figure but so what ? The tune and output is the same. You can always look out for a dyno day on a 4wd if you must have the awd figure.

...and it will be within a bees wang of being the same anyway.

not quite true.

my car dyno'd at 210rwkw with the front shaft dropped on a 2WD dyno.

on an AWD dyno it dyno'd at 178awkw - same car - same mods - same boost.

different dyno, yes, but i doubt it would account for a diffence of some 30+kw. lots of mechanical loss of power in the drivetrain. does that mean the car would go harder in 2WD mode? i have no idea.....but the dyno doesnt lie...much. heheh.

(out of interest, that was done on an eManage Ultimate. i now have a Nistune that i'll be throwing in and getting retuned. Mod's won't have changed at all, so it will be verrrrry interesting to see what figures they can pull out of the Nistune vs the Emanage)

Edited by SMOKEYC34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pads for R32 GTS-t, R32 GT-R non V-Spec (Sumitomo), R33 GTS-t and R34 GT-t are all interchangeable. R34 GT uses a 2x piston caliper, hence it didn't fit.
    • Checked with amayama and nope, the full S2 manual set is not available anymore. Unsurprising, but still disappointing as the ? on availability gave a glimmer of hope.
    • I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
×
×
  • Create New...