The Nisstune Thread

[Mr GTS4]

QWK32 - i have a copy of the software yes..

mods are

HKS GTR-s

front mount

3" exhaust

greddy boost controller

the guy before me had haltech on it but i saw alot of advantages to the nistune so i went that way..

i have acopy of all the base maps aswell, is there some things i can do to that to help things?

i also have a apexi turbo timer which outputs the AFR'S, as soon as you touch the accelerator at 60k's it goes from 14.5 to 10.5 or even 10.0 sometimes..

thanks again

[QWK32]

QWK32 - i have a copy of the software yes..

mods are

HKS GTR-s

front mount

3" exhaust

greddy boost controller

the guy before me had haltech on it but i saw alot of advantages to the nistune so i went that way..

i have acopy of all the base maps aswell, is there some things i can do to that to help things?

i also have a apexi turbo timer which outputs the AFR'S, as soon as you touch the accelerator at 60k's it goes from 14.5 to 10.5 or even 10.0 sometimes..

thanks again

don't pay any attention to the apexi timer reading. the stock narrowband O2 sensor can't be trusted with any value apart from ~14.7, even then i'd doubt its accuracy. if your getting a reading in the 10's on the pen timer, it could really be a value anywhere from say 10-13.

what tune do you currently have on the ecu, stock maps? on the stock maps it will run rich once on boost even with the GT-RS. i suppose you could take a bit out of the high rpm, high load part of the fuel table, but without getting a wideband O2 sensor to check it you wouldn't know if you've taken too much out. do you have access to a wideband O2 sensor?

also i'd be interested to see if you coming close to the limits of the stock AFM, what boost are you running? link up to the ecu with the software and open the timing map, then watch the map tracer to see how close to the right hand side of the map it goes when you rev it out under load. ideally you don't want it to hit the last row of cells. also check the fuel map, it has a smaller load scale than the timing map so you can run off the edge earlier than you will on the timing map.

[sh@un]

flippin' heck

i thought you could get Nisstune's for all Stags. i was looking forward to putting one in my S1 later this year

[QWK32]

flippin' heck

i thought you could get Nisstune's for all Stags. i was looking forward to putting one in my S1 later this year

you can, but you have to be willing to chop and rewire your ecu loom to a Z32 ecu plug so you can use a Z32 ecu.

don't know if this would work, just an idea. but could you replace the stagea engine loom with a late model R33 engine loom? engines are the same so electrical plugs should be the same. probably have to splice in a few wires that go to other areas of the car, should be an issue though. then you could easily run a Z32 Nistune ecu without having to hackup, identify, and rewire the stagea loom.

[Mr GTS4]

don't pay any attention to the apexi timer reading. the stock narrowband O2 sensor can't be trusted with any value apart from ~14.7, even then i'd doubt its accuracy. if your getting a reading in the 10's on the pen timer, it could really be a value anywhere from say 10-13.

what tune do you currently have on the ecu, stock maps? on the stock maps it will run rich once on boost even with the GT-RS. i suppose you could take a bit out of the high rpm, high load part of the fuel table, but without getting a wideband O2 sensor to check it you wouldn't know if you've taken too much out. do you have access to a wideband O2 sensor?

also i'd be interested to see if you coming close to the limits of the stock AFM, what boost are you running? link up to the ecu with the software and open the timing map, then watch the map tracer to see how close to the right hand side of the map it goes when you rev it out under load. ideally you don't want it to hit the last row of cells. also check the fuel map, it has a smaller load scale than the timing map so you can run off the edge earlier than you will on the timing map.

i have stock maps loaded, no tune has been done since the board was fitted... don't have access to wideband.

using stock afm atm but i have a z32 ready to go (wiring is all sorted just needs to be plugged in). next part sounds like too much effort!! lol

i have no idea once it comes to the tuning side of things so yeah, i friend works at a workshop that has just signed up with nistune so i might just get them to tune it for me.

[S T A R 3 3]

Ok guys... where is the ECU.. lol, I'm sorry for asking such a basic question, but I've never had to touch/see an ECU before reading up on nistune-ing.

[wolverine]

Passenger side kickpanel. Pretty much just pull the kickpanel and the panel clips should release.

[AAA34T]

I am trying to find. Who in sydney does nistunes and has had heaps of expirence and has a 4wd dyno

[S T A R 3 3]

I am trying to find. Who in sydney does nistunes and has had heaps of expirence and has a 4wd dyno

Someone has recommended CRD for tuning. And I do believe they have a 'special' offer in their business thread on these forums.

But I've never done this before so....

[S T A R 3 3]

Passenger side kickpanel. Pretty much just pull the kickpanel and the panel clips should release.

Thank u so much!

[wolverine]

I am trying to find. Who in sydney does nistunes and has had heaps of expirence and has a 4wd dyno

Unigroup.

Either get them to drop the front driveshaft or drop it yourself.

If they are happy to let it on the dyno with the little green plug pulled then you can go that way.

I would strongly suggest using them.

[Stagonwagon]

I'm looking at installing an FMIC, boost controller and better flowing exhaust before tuning my S2. Are the gains going to be worth it without getting a bigger turbo?

[wolverine]

You should make around 200rwkw with those mods after tuning the Nistune. I think it is worth it. More important than the peak power number is the vastly improved drivability everywhere IF you go to a good tuner.

[Stagonwagon]

I'm lucky enough to have a friend who knows how to configure it. His workshop has a awd dyno too I'm pretty sure. Now I just need to put together a decent exhaust....

[AAA34T]

Unigroup.

Either get them to drop the front driveshaft or drop it yourself.

If they are happy to let it on the dyno with the little green plug pulled then you can go that way.

I would strongly suggest using them.

i want unigroup to do it but i am a fusy prick and i want it done in 4wd. Unigroup know envy performance and they have a 4wd dyno and sometimes use it so i am trying to see what i can hook up.

[wolverine]

What difference does a 4WD dyno make? Nearly 100% of the time your car peddles around on the rear wheels.

If Yavuz uses the Envy dyno it will be for cars that does allow easy 2WD mode.

Best bet is to give them a call and see what they say.

[KiwiRS4T]

I paid extra for a 4wd dyno once but then thought why did I do that ? There is no point whatsoever fussy or not. Just drop the front driveshaft and pull the fuse and the 2wd dyno will do just as well. The only difference is you will get a rwd power figure but so what ? The tune and output is the same. You can always look out for a dyno day on a 4wd if you must have the awd figure.

[wolverine]

You can always look out for a dyno day on a 4wd if you must have the awd figure.

...and it will be within a bees wang of being the same anyway.

[SMOKEYV35]

...and it will be within a bees wang of being the same anyway.

not quite true.

my car dyno'd at 210rwkw with the front shaft dropped on a 2WD dyno.

on an AWD dyno it dyno'd at 178awkw - same car - same mods - same boost.

different dyno, yes, but i doubt it would account for a diffence of some 30+kw. lots of mechanical loss of power in the drivetrain. does that mean the car would go harder in 2WD mode? i have no idea.....but the dyno doesnt lie...much. heheh.

(out of interest, that was done on an eManage Ultimate. i now have a Nistune that i'll be throwing in and getting retuned. Mod's won't have changed at all, so it will be verrrrry interesting to see what figures they can pull out of the Nistune vs the Emanage)

Edited July 1, 2011 by SMOKEYC34

[wolverine]

Different dyno + temperature = the reason