Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 gtst S1.

My power steering has been playing up periodically.

I fitted a lockbar, but the same thing is still happening, more so now.

eg. Start it up, steering feels normal (light) for a couple of minutes, then gets heavy and stays heavy. If i turn the car off for a minute or so, and back on, it's back to normal for as long as i drive usually. Then maybe on the next start it might be heavy again, or will revert to heavy while driving.

I removed the steering postion sensor from behind the steering wheel. I thought removing it would probably make the steering heavy all the time. It seems to have made no difference.

I removed the hicas fuse from the boot. No difference.

I unplugged the hicas ecu. Steering gets heavy.

So what should i be looking at? The hicas ecu is faulty?

Considering removing the steering position sensor has made no difference, i would imagine that cant be the issue, or removing it would have caused heavy steering constanlty.

And why with the fuse removed do i still get light steering for extended periods? I thought that would kill the whole hicas deal.

Your advice / experience is appreciated.

And also, forget the hicas light. I dont care about the light being on. Just the weight of the steering. I'd gladly replace the hicas bulb with one 10 times brighter, just to have my normal steering back :blink:

Edited by Munkyb0y

so many responses. please people, contain yourselves :)

another thing that occured to me. i recall reading somewhere, when removing the hicas rack, leave what you can plugged in under there.

well when i removed it, there was only one earth strap to the rear cradle that remained. everything else was just loose ends that i cable tied away.

i didn't touch anything under the boss kit....

just hooked up the lock bar, cable tied all the new loose ends and crabwalked my ass over for an allignment....

afaik the hicas ECU is the same as the power steering, so disconnecting it will f**k your steering

try to get an ECU from a mate and try that?

How urgent is getting the HICAS computer for you?

Mine will be out in like 2 - 3 weeks

How are you taking it out? I was under the impression you can not take it out without it going into crazy "where the f**k is the HICAS computer gone, im going to take away your power steering mode you son of a bitch" mode.

This crazy mode it enters... Afaik that's the ecu causing that isn't it? Might need to recheck the wiring diagrams, but I believe it's done by ecu. As such that's already aftermarket.

And I was going to rip everything out out cables and all. I'll test it once I've moved the car. Pull hicas controller out, see if ps is alive

from what ive tried, if you remove the hicas computer, power steering goes with it. it may ultimately be up to the ecu, i dont know, but if it is, it doesnt like the hicas computer not being present. either way, the power steering goes.

it would be good to see if you work around this somehow. post up your findings when you get to it.

and wouldnt you know it? my power steering has been behaving itself over the past 2 days. so swapping anything out right now wont tell me much.

Edited by Munkyb0y

well i don't know about dramas after the hicas bar is installed. but i was having the steering dramas before i put the bar in and before i took the car to the mechanici removed the fuse to the Hicas and wouldnt you know the steering is constantly soft and responsive. I have no Hicas ecu anymore and mine hasn't played up after the bar went in either...

Another one ive heard is , you have the lock out bar in , no fuse , and u leave the ecu plugged in but u cut a wire which apprently is what goes to the steering sensor and cutting that wire will apparently eliminate the heavy steering problem. Can't confirm it though havent tryed.

hey mate,

95 r33 here

I had heavy steering issues so did HICAS lockout + alignment.

I experienced intermittent heavy steering issues so removed the fuse which fixed the problem.

Never had problems with arm-breaking steering in 12months UNLESS I take my car through the laser car wash that sprays underside of car with high pressure water jet. This obviously disturbs or shortens out a sensor in the back end of car and problem will reappear until I turn ignition off then on again.

I'd say it's something to do with plugs near the diff.

Cheers :)

Edited by dave_rb20

Does your light come on after 10 or so minutes of driving?

Mine does in my 32R and then it gets heavy steering.

Its getting the Hicas removed at Xspeed, I should get the car back tommorow. I will find out exactly what they removed and if it fixed the heavy steering issue.

what is this plug? the line under it runs to the steering rack.

post-29392-1270075850_thumb.jpg

i unplugged it to check the contacts were clean, and found it was wet in there. so i cleaned it with contact cleaner, and blew it out with a compressor.

drove the car last night and today and steering feels spot on. dont know if this might have been the cause of the intermittent problems or not.

fingers crossed. i guess i'll find out over the next week or so.

the reason i was in there was to clean this plug which runs straight to the solenoid by the looks of it. being under the oil filter, it gets covered in oil at every oil change.

post-29392-1270076021_thumb.jpg

well it was a total b1tch to unplug, really hard to reach, and requires two hands, but there's barely room for one.

cleaned it eventually, but it looked like it was pretty clean, and well sealed from the surrounding oil/grime.

my light used to come on after about 10mins of driving and stay on, steering didnt realy get heavy

now the light flashes on and off every 5 or so mins, everytime the light goes on (usualy for 2 seconds) the steering gets heavy, soon as the light goes off steering goes back to norm

hecticGTR: yeh bro let us no how u go, if it fixed the problem im locking mine out aswell

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...