Jump to content
SAU Community

anyone know about the 1jzgte toyota?


Recommended Posts

Guest kawgomoo

sorry this is kind of off topic being a skyline place. but yall seem to know whats up.

anyhow anyone know anything about the 1jzgte? my friend has a clapped out lexus sc400 and we are looker to swap in an i6 twin turbo.... is the 1jzgte worth looking at?

what kind of power can be gotten out of it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3126-anyone-know-about-the-1jzgte-toyota/
Share on other sites

With the usual breathing mods and boost they are meant to be good for close on 200kw at the wheels with pretty good torque characteristics.

Basically the toytoa equivelant to the RB NIssan family of engines, with some out their saying they are a better engine mechanically, but management systems are not so flexible.

Guest kawgomoo

ive noticed in the uk and aussie alike people seem to produce less power than cars in the states, is it just my imagination? or do you all have strict governing laws? perhaps you all have more places for road racing? all we really do is street/drag race. im looking for about 300kw at the wheels. though i could settle for a little less.

unless my conversion is off for kw to hp, im multiplying kw by 1.34 to arrive at my hp number. anyone know if this is right?

you'll find that most people in australia (dunno bout the UK) modify their car either moderately or over the top. Most of the time power ratings are from mods that DON'T include nitrous, coz well.. its illegal to have an NO2 system in a roadgoing car in most states.

Tuning in australia pretty much closely follows the Jap scene, where average users will mess with airflow in and out, BOV's FMIC's, SAFC's and ECU's. The more serious ones will rebore their engines, mess with camshafts, fuel rails, etc etc.

Really depends how much money you have, bearing in mind once you mod it your insurance jumps heaps, as imported cars aren't looked upon favourably by insurance companies here. Most of the guys here use their cars as daily drivers, so can't realistically make kW farting monsters (even though the car is capable of it).

I don't see many serious cars now days using NOS. Just pure, Jap style, hardcore components and engine know how. And unlike in the US, we don't have very long straight roads everywhere.

As for the Toyota motors, they are more reliable because they are a lower reving unit. Also you cannot deny it, but Toyota know how to make a reliable car. The motor is more after lower end power/torque, rather than all out power up top.

Guest kawgomoo

we dont use nos over here too much. but we tend to not tell our insurance about the mods we do, and even then it doesnt really raise the price an incredible amount. around our shop, and the people i see at the tracks and what not a built motor is standard issue, just keeping up with the jone's so to speak. most of the cars we build motors for and tune are daily drivers. we usually get 3-400whp out of the better hondas, with 250-300whp being about average for the less serious cars, usually inhibited by phony tuning gimmicks {apex afc, fmu's etc etc}

internally stock 2jzgte supras with air intake, exhaust, boost controller and downpipe are in the 380-420whp range.

the shop i work at has a c hassis dyno so i get to see w hat works and w hat doesnt without spending a dime :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...