Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got my best times on the KU36 starting at 36psi cold. Didn't make note of the hot pressures. But the heavyweight Supra probably put a couple of extra pound in them through heat than your lighter R32.

Cheers guys, that will save me a bit time playing around with pressures! I'm going down in 2 weeks and i'll let u know how i go:)

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey guys, great topic. Any cahance of listing the tyres in some sort of performance category or compound list and with the average prices.

i havent had a new set of tyres on my car yet, still using the secont hand RE55s off the v8 utes. I want to no im spending the right money when the time comes, and you guys seem to have the majority covered. I dont think i can run the bridgestones again at $440 a corner.

My opinion of relative performance and price of semi slicks:

Dunlop DZ03 (expensive)

Bridgestone Re55s (expensive, now)

Yoko A050 (expensive)

Kumho V70A (medium)

Toyo 888 (medium)

Pirelli P-Zero (v expensive)

Yoko A048R (expensive)

Just a guess on the yoko a050 I have not run them personally. they might be quicker than the re55 but its hard to tell because they are a softer compound. Also bridgestone are terrible in the wet with low tread, and the kumhos provide consistent grip well below the wear markers (ie they last a long time without dropping off). Yoko A048 are OK for first 3 laps but drop of really quickly, well before they wear out.

I don't know anything about the 2nd tier tyres (falken azenis, kumho ku36, federal 595rs etc etc) except that you will loose at least a second or 2.

ultimately if you want to win you need to buy new dz03s each time. anything else depends on how much you can compromise.

and for social track days etc.

My opinion of relative performance and price of semi slicks:

Dunlop DZ03 (expensive)

Bridgestone Re55s (expensive, now)

Yoko A050 (expensive)

Kumho V70A (medium)

Toyo 888 (medium)

Pirelli P-Zero (v expensive)

Yoko A048R (expensive)

Just a guess on the yoko a050 I have not run them personally. they might be quicker than the re55 but its hard to tell because they are a softer compound. Also bridgestone are terrible in the wet with low tread, and the kumhos provide consistent grip well below the wear markers (ie they last a long time without dropping off). Yoko A048 are OK for first 3 laps but drop of really quickly, well before they wear out.

I don't know anything about the 2nd tier tyres (falken azenis, kumho ku36, federal 595rs etc etc) except that you will loose at least a second or 2.

ultimately if you want to win you need to buy new dz03s each time. anything else depends on how much you can compromise.

I dont want to hijack the thread but i dont think its worth starting another one for a very similiar topic.

What is the largest set of semi slicks and full slicks that can be fitted on a 32 gtr? I am looking at 295s all round, is this possible or go abit smaller like 275s? Im running 17 inch rims, havent purchased them yet but looking at 10' wide rims too, so will 295s be too wide for those? whats the ideal size for a gtr for time attack sort of stuff. Its a pretty serious engine combo etc so i want as little traction issues as possible.

Whats the best options for full slicks for this sort of stuff, and rough idea on prices?

If the mods feel this isnt on topic then delete it and ill start a seperate thread.

stu I'd run the toyos or kumhos depending which is cheaper for bashing around the track. but sooner or later you will want to know "what is the best time this car can do", and the only way to find out is to put the best tyres on it. About 350 each instead of 500. Careful with second hand ones, they look cheap but can we well and truely rooted even if they still show tread depth (heat cycles kill them not wear)

lets say the dunlop and bridgestone are a second quicker than the next best tyres (possible at some tracks).....imagine how frustrating it is to try and make up that second through power, suspensions settings, different driving lines etc when you could just bolt the right tyres on.

Combined Touring Cars went from A048 control tyres to Kumho V70A and went a full second faster. Then control tyres were dropped, the front runners are buying new dunlops and bridgies, and going 1.5 to 2 seconds faster again. Improved Production still run A048 and despite far more mods being allowed (eg engines are free esp for non turbo cars) their quickest cars are slower than the fastest production cars.

  • 2 weeks later...

Boy, $275 a tyre!! :cool:

Makes me glad to be driving a little buzzox shopping trolley on 15's!! The RSR 595's are $120 a corner, so at that price I might grab a set once the 048's wear out. These are meant to be 140 treadwear - correct? (not sure if I'm reading the specs correctly). These track tyres are all new to me.

Point taken about wanting to know what the car;s capable of. Before I get there, I need to first learn to drive the car properly, then get to know the track (Lakeside) then start thinking about tyres and suspension (it's currently set up for gravel, with about 4" excess ride height). Depending on how well I take to tarmac work (loved lakeside) I'll look at what my options are.

lol.....mine are 500-550 a tyre....

Hi All

Just had a quick glance, on R32 at 300kw,Yoky A050's Softs with, front 34psi Rear 32 Hot at most events up to 5 laps or not too hot a day - on the R33, (370kws) at Oran Park with brand new DZo3's 285x30x18 SR's were a clear second slower than Yoky A050's 265x35x18 this is also case at the same test at Eastern Creek. So keeping this in mind Yoky's wear a bit quicker, produced the best time and over $1000 a set cheaper. although in longer race conditions say 10 - 20 laps, the DZo3s are nicer to drive on.

yeah they have had some great results, on your cars and others in sprints, hillclimb etc.

can't work for me because we have min 3x 20min races and they will just get smashed....even gordon leven were not willing to recommend their hardest a050s for race use.

also not a great deal for most people doing longer track sessions.....but obviously a great choice if you are only doing 3 laps at a time

i have used Khumo semi's and Bridgestone re55.

Bridgies came up to temp earlier and held consistantly lap after lap.

Used khumo's took a while to build up temp and then held really good... they seemed to be good value for money. Not real good for hillclimbs though! :)

i have used Khumo semi's and Bridgestone re55.

Bridgies came up to temp earlier and held consistantly lap after lap.

Used khumo's took a while to build up temp and then held really good... they seemed to be good value for money. Not real good for hillclimbs though! :ermm:

that all depends what compound Kumhos you bought.

Kumho V70's are pretty good value for money and I think they are a very underated tyre, most people write them off as a basic motorsport tyre.

I think this is because when you look at the V70 Semi's, they don't look like your regular RE55 or A048's. The tread depth is very shallow and they don't have huge tread blocks.

However, when I gave them a go; the grip was very good, and they held up to the heat very well. I'm only doing 5 laps at a time but I have excellent grip the whole time.

I can only compare them to Advan A048's I've run previously and they were at least 2 second's a lap quicker.

I would expect more expensive tyres such as DZ03's, A050's and RE55's to be slightly better, but for the price I paid ($330e each for 245/40/17) I'm fairly impressed with them.

Hmmm... Once my Kumho's wear out, I'd really like to try the soft A050's after hearing so many good things about them.

^^^^ That is contrary to our experience with them. we ran them for two Targa Tasmanias, once on a '02 STi and the other time on a 34 GTR, and they were a great tyre, unmatchable in the wet in my opinion.

Their outright dry performance has been surpased now though.

We also found they worked best at lower pressures, liking to start around 24 cold and setting them at 30 hot.

^^ I was about to say the same thing. I don't think I run high pressures in the Kumho's to make them work. I've never had them over 35 psi hot and try to keep them around 32 psi hot.

Also, I had to get a price on the Advan A050's and in 245/40/17 size they are $485 each from Gordon Levin.

Edited by nismoman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...