Jump to content
SAU Community

The Near End Of My Rb25de+t

dori34

By dori34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted

Well, its been a good 8-9months (4x,000km), car copped a good thrashing at numerous track days, hill runs, skid pans and it is nearly at the end of it's life.

117,000KM later, the car is now experiencing excessive blow by......

all cooler & intake pipes have sh*tloads of oil in it and the AFM & inside of air filter is literally painted with oil. i've installed a catch can just to see how much it collects in one day. car runs smooth until the AFM is covered in oil then it gets lumpy idle (sounds like stage 1 cams :lol: ) it drives smooth still but when i try to floor it, theres a lag in boost and it feels as if im running at 50% power then what it was before.. such a sad weekend for my car but i already have someting big planned for it for this year so i will update later on when it is nearly completed ;)

I had a feeling the compression wasn't perfect from day 1 when i did the conversion as i noticed a tiny bit of oil around the sparkies when i did the service.

i guess 14psi was just too much for it..

it made a good 204rwkw / 549nM on 14psi on a 30degree day.

after some fun @ twisties run on Sat night, the car started missing at the end of the night.

wouldn't boost properly, stuttering, rough idle, sounded funny when it did boost.

problems found;

1) 1x bolt fell off screamer pipe so it was open (hence funny sound) so everytime i gated, massive amounts of heat melted the wiring loom & o2 sensor loom......

2) vaccum line from ebc to wastegate melted as it was near the screamer, the hose was as hard as plastic and just snapped in half

afm

ej5ve0.jpg

cooler pipes/tb

35mpc00.jpg

iogj5u.jpg

intake

24z9htw.jpg

Looks like my rings are f*ked?????

but it's not blowing any blue/grey smoke tho.

Willl get a comp test & leak down test just to see how bad the damage is but as long as i baby it now and dont give it hell, it should last a few more months of "sedate" driving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312732-the-near-end-of-my-rb25det/
Share on other sites
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Check your PCV, how's it all plumbed in (The breather lines)

Looks like an issue I had... Also, if the front seal goes, it'll pump oil through like you have.

If you've truly done a ring landing, in my experience when on boost it'll go fine for a bit, then just blow a shit load of oil... It's how mine used to... Just pressurised the crank and oil goes everywhere through the motor

When mine dropped a ring landing, I had a miss on idle (Sounded like lumpy cams) a drop in power, but the car ran smoothly once up off idle, and blew smoke after a bit of kicking it in the guts...

Do a compression test... I had cylinder 3 drop to 70PSi, when I did the wet test, it went to 125... The sad part... All other cylinders held out at 155PSi dry, 165 wet...

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
When mine dropped a ring landing, I had a miss on idle (Sounded like lumpy cams) a drop in power, but the car ran smoothly once up off idle, and blew smoke after a bit of kicking it in the guts...

Thats exactly how it is now minus the smoke

will report back after getting the comp test done.

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

oh no man, that sux!

hope you got some nice new goodies planned for it!

You know what's funny... I was actually thinking i should give mine a compression test the other day as I have noticed a little bit more blow-by then normal when on full boost....

car still running sweet though so not too worried. I think it's just the bush bearing of the hypergear turbo...

gl with it man.

p.s trolling with like 4 threads eh?

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted

easy way to tell if its the turbo or the engine is to bull off the breather/oil cap and idle it, if its pissing out fumes on idle and under rev's she's knackered.

I've got an R33 in my driveway atm with the exact same issue (factory RB25DET) the rings are just knackered. I've disconnected and blocked all breathers at the manifold and put the hose for the rockers into a ventring catch can. Fills it after a bit of a thrash but i just tip it back in. Most of the dodgy running is due to the fumes in the intake, if you just vent they go alot better, mine doesnt blow exhaust smoke either.

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

white smoke does come out of the oil cap when warm & running but doesn't happen when it's cold.

i installed a catch can and so far so good, the oil isn't going to the afm so i guess its working & collecting the oil, at least it idles fine.

Changing the spark plugs tomorrow and im expecting to see a crap load of oil on them

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

My engine blew up on me twice. I didn't end up with massive amount of oil in the throttle body or cooler piping. Most of oil just shoot like a high pressure pistol from the dipstick pipe.

To me that much of oil is unlikely to be the turbo. But check to see if it turns or got shaft play or missing wheels.

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
My engine blew up on me twice. I didn't end up with massive amount of oil in the throttle body or cooler piping. Most of oil just shoot like a high pressure pistol from the dipstick pipe.

To me that much of oil is unlikely to be the turbo. But check to see if it turns or got shaft play or missing wheels.

Hey Stao,

I checked the turbo front wheel, perfect condition, no shaft play at all & no oil shooting out from dip stick area.

im pretty sure its the rings but i could be wrong, i am changing sparkies tomorrow because atm its stuttering in low revs so if theres oil on the spark plug then the rings are definitely gone.

i noticed oil in there before i did the turbo covnersion but it was very little.

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

Hope you get it all sorted out man :) I'm looking forward to seeing the result of what you got planned though... gonna be a well powered responsive setup! ps. I emailed you a link to RB26DETT Exhaust Manifolds and Heat Shields :ermm:

  • 3 months later...
kawasakirider Grand Master

kawasakirider

Posted
Posted

Hey mate, just curious if you have a build thread for your +T conversion? The reason I ask is I am considering buying a 34 gt as I'm on my P's and selling it for a GT-T later. But if it's easy enough to turbo and get good power without going insane with the boost (7 psi, not nearly a whole bar like you have) it may be the go.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...