Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FUJITA vs JWT POP CHARGER & z-tube (An Apparent Design Comparison)

Ok, now, I am looking at purchasing one of these two, the prices are very similar that its not an issue. My main concern now is design, from what i can see (various pictures) is that the JWT has more components which direct more air to it.

1. The bit of tubing on top of the grill which pushes air towards the air filter, I believe this is even effectively directing air at relatively slow speeds, say 20-60kph.

2. Heat shield, this well "blocks" a bit of the ambient heat it also helps to keep the air which is being pushed in from the bottom "directed" at the filter.

The Fujita intake filter is positioned much lower then the JWT reasons why i think they did this was to get most of the air from the bottom (through the inlet in the bumpers) and the lower bit of the grill. It does NOT make use of a heat shield (can be fabricated but I am talking about out-of-box-design) or the tubing which sits atop of the grill.

What do you guys think? what I just said will have negligible results? Im just working from a design perspective to then help myself and other buy the apparently better product.

JWT:

post-51287-1272985054_thumb.jpg

JWT keeps the standard intake tube..i personally would prefer the kit come wth a smoother one than the factory 350gt tube.

The fujita cai looks alright, once again i personally don't like the long design of the intake tube..could hurt throttle response, and let's face it...the drive by wire system already makes it slow, especially when the engine is at idle or near idle rpms.

I was running the HKS intake setup, found it to be brilliant. Recently went back to z tube + high flow panel, and the car has slowed down a fair bit. Those hks intakes are really high flowing with minimal resistance allowing the engine to rev much quicker but you pay the price in the filter element used (you can see specks of light if holding the filter element against some light source).

My 2cents.

guys, with either of these is 3/36 of 1/4 of fck all in power difference.

in regards to cold air partition, use one as hot air will send you backwards.

in regards to "ram air" effect. bugger all really, there is no big bell mouth, no massive air guides. Just a relatively free breathing air box.

in regards to changes in low down/midrange power, with a stock pre filter intake and being an NA the only bit that really matters is between the throttle body and the valves, so just the runners, these havent changed so bugger all there.

as for tube design... again, not much in it, but a smooth pipe will give a slightly nicer flow.

So if you want to make a difference (but it will only be tiny). grab the fujita pipe and a pod, build a cold air partition to totally seal the pod and intake from the engine call it a day.

Unless you plan to radically change the snorkel design INTO the partition your not going to see a huge difference either way.

Which one claims more power?
guys, with either of these is 3/36 of 1/4 of fck all in power difference.

:(:P ...lol like your way of putting it. Yes, i DO understand there is "negligible" power gains unless you go into the really high

end enclosed units which have LARGE dedicated cold air feeds.

But im not looking at performance from these two units, more for the sound AND im looking at what's the best bang for my buck?? (Both systems are around the USD250 mark). Btw IMO, the rippled section on the tube is so small that the possibility of a circular air current being formed which then impedes in the flow of air is soooo minute, that's its not really a factor.

sigh...

believe what you will.

I've personally seen 0.3sec difference between my hks intake and panel filter/z tube from personal testing on my car and that's all my gonna say - people ask but no one listens anyways heh.

Touge, do you have any details on this HKS intake, please?

Are you selling your one?

Personally, I feel HKS filter is crap. If you look around in the web, you will see that they do let in a lot of dust particle into the engine.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all just reading this thread, as i am interested in installing somthing similar in my v

After reading the thread and different opinions I was wondering if somthing along the lines of this?

this is a photoshoped mix of the:

Fujita intake

and

JWT

as they both have pros and cons etc

(also im just fken board with nothing better to do)

ideal.jpg

thats not too bad... would be even better if you could close off the gap between the end of the strut and the end of the partition.

yeh i think just going off wat other have said, if that was closed in would be the best of both worlds. keep in mind that picture is make belive i just mushed the 2 pics together lol

but its deinatly do'able if u buy the fujita intake and mod it slightly and make a fiber glass or similar sheild for it would be quite a nice lil mod for the 'v' both in preformance(even if it is ever so slight) sounds and looks imo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...