Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It also runs a percision turbo, think its a 7xxx. 1060awhp I think it made at Downshift Dyno day. Nitto 3.2 stroker in it.

Nitto was on a 7675 and 43-ish PSI when it made 845awhp on the stock bottom end i'm pretty sure.

Nitto was on a 7675 and 43-ish PSI when it made 845awhp on the stock bottom end i'm pretty sure.

Yeah that was on their RB26 motor they had. Think that one died lol. The stroked 3.2 is the new"ish" engine that makes 1060awhp.

Will be interesting to see what times it runs once they fix their issues. 160mph is bloody fast!

Here is the what it looks like to pull off a 6766 and put on a 6466 both tuned to run on 93 oct. at 23.5 psi blue lines are the 6466

Still needs cleaned up a bit but I like the look of it. :yes:

IMG_0866_zps8c498885.jpg

Edited by Weapon X

More details of the type of car? I'd guess from the weak early power delivery and rpm that it's an RB26 with big cams?

Awesome power, surprised there wasn't that big of an improvement in spool between the two - without boost curve overlay it's easy to assume the 6466 just has a little more midrange boost pushed into it

The 64mm compressor seems to not flow a huge amount short of the 6766, I think it makes the 6766 redundant and those who want to go to the next level up in power from the 6466 should be looking at one of the HTA units - especially on an RB.

The lack of spool difference on the dyno is a surprise, though I'd expect that transient response will paint a different picture - unless there is something else unaccounted for in that comparison.

  • Like 1

RB28 with Tomei 270 cams ,Full Race header, Precision 6466 ,head work, Tomei cam gears ,3 5/8 down pipe to 4" , Magna Fuel Pro tuner pump, -10 to the front ,-8 to a sard rail ,2 -6 returns 1000 cc ID's ,2 Precision 38 mm waste gates, EGT per cylinder ,AEM , the normal stuff.

My modification to a Full Race header to keep heat away.

0292.jpg

Edited by Weapon X

I wonder if that is reaching the potential of the turbine wheel or if there just isn't that much between the 64 and 67mm compressors?

What im being told is the 6466 is just starting at this boost gets better as it goes up.

The 64mm compressor seems to not flow a huge amount short of the 6766, I think it makes the 6766 redundant and those who want to go to the next level up in power from the 6466 should be looking at one of the HTA units - especially on an RB.

The lack of spool difference on the dyno is a surprise, though I'd expect that transient response will paint a different picture - unless there is something else unaccounted for in that comparison.

It's 4th gear pulls but I thought it would spool like 300 rpm sooner but they data logs look almost the same just more efficient wheel for that rpm in this powers case I guess

Edited by Weapon X

RB28 with Tomei 270 cams ,Full Race header, Precision 6466 ,head work, Tomei cam gears ,3 5/8 down pipe to 4" , Magna Fuel Pro tuner pump, -10 to the front ,-8 to a sard rail ,2 -6 returns 1000 cc ID's ,2 Precision 38 mm waste gates, EGT per cylinder , the normal stuff.

My modification to a Full Race header to keep heat away.

So it's your car? How does it compare before and after to drive? Its really good power but that lag looks much worse than I would have expected, especially on a stroker! Seems like a very nice setup otherwise, nice work :)

So it's your car? How does it compare before and after to drive? Its really good power but that lag looks much worse than I would have expected, especially on a stroker! Seems like a very nice setup otherwise, nice work :)

Yes this ones mine. It's still setting on the Dyno i'm going to make a few more pulls in the cool morning air and maybe try adjusting the valve timing a bit I'm setting on zero on both now.

I'm going to try to advance the intake a bit then retard the exhaust just to see. We have 3 other customer cars to finish...

Yes lag blows.

Fingers crossed it can improve a little bit, though I'm guessing its not going to be a huge amount better. Would have liked to have seen it all in by mid 4000rpm on a 2.8 - at least when not running a huge amount of boost.


Let us know how you find the 6466 vs the 6766... and on that note, how did the 6766 drive?

yes it will.

small rear housing.

bb cartridge.

.84 with the twin scroll ?

or is this to small and all it will do is generate heat?

motor is a standard 2.6 but will be built once it blows want a 2.8 kit

Interesting to note the SR22VET is superior on all accounts. Its over half a litre smaller.

It goes to show that cylinder head technology pays out a lot more than cubes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...