Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone ,

I was thinking of using a percision 7168 on a built rb25 with auto behind it

Was thinking to use a ported h front cover

What size rear housing should I use (.68 .81)

Has anyone used one of these, what sort of power would I get (18-20 psi for street ,28-35 psi for drags)

Was thinking about e85 but not shore. Closest e85 is about an hour away

Need to decide on turbo to built custom manifold

Any info / advise would be very helpful

Thanks everyone

Hi everyone ,

I was thinking of using a percision 7168 on a built rb25 with auto behind it

Was thinking to use a ported h front cover

What size rear housing should I use (.68 .81)

Has anyone used one of these, what sort of power would I get (18-20 psi for street ,28-35 psi for drags)

Was thinking about e85 but not shore. Closest e85 is about an hour away

Need to decide on turbo to built custom manifold

Any info / advise would be very helpful

Thanks everyone

Argh people really need to mention power targets when saying they want a turbo suggestion. What are your targets? If you are going for 35psi for drags I am assuming a lot, and you're going to need to run E85/C16/Q16/something which can handle the associated pressure.

Please clarify :)

I was thinking about 350 kw for street & for the drags, I'll have to boost the hell out of it & hope for the best

I want to get at least a high to mid 10 in street trim, & for race at least a mid to low 9

I thought I might have to run e85. It will make it easier for racing (load up race tune, put the slicks on & hold on)

I was thinking about 350 kw for street & for the drags, I'll have to boost the hell out of it & hope for the best

I want to get at least a high to mid 10 in street trim, & for race at least a mid to low 9

I thought I might have to run e85. It will make it easier for racing (load up race tune, put the slicks on & hold on)

Not sure how well a RB25 would go with an auto and that large a turbo - you won't be getting full boost until around 6000rpm at a guess, and mid-ish 10s with 350kw would be pretty damn good going too, depending on the chassis.

If you are split between E85 and petrol for practicality, just go an ECU (and tuner :/) which can handle flex fuel tuning. Are you specifically after a Precision turbo? FP have turbos which are a tad insane for sale at the moment which would be pretty mean for aiming for low 9s - again depending on overall setup: http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTFPSUPER94&Category_Code=Turbo-FP

Can be attached to a T3 manifold and make pretty much all of the power, and while it would be hardly a street turbo it will provide a huge amount of power for the spool and is very very cheap (at the moment) for what it is. If you are looking for turbos of this hp area (1000hp+) then you're going to need some serious engine work - headwork inclusive if you hope to get everything out of a turbo of this size on 'up to' 35psi. Otherwise something like a Precision PT6466 or something of the sort wouldn't be a silly choice.

You can't run those times with 350rwkw.... If that's your power target then a 7xxx turbo is way too big

I think the faster times he was aiming for the unnamed "race" power level - 350kw was street mode.

Easily. But if it's hypothetically capable making that power on 20psi through an auto, I doubt it will flow enough to supply enough air to boost the same engine to 35psi :wacko:

For all intents and purposes he's asking for a turbo which would make 600rwkw (give or take) through a manual on E85 from what I can tell

Lol :D Yeah the wording was a bit hard to follow, I had to read the post a couple of times to get (what I think...) he meant.

Yeah making that power "nicely" I think would involve a nice modern 67mm turbo - so yeah, PT6766 and also the Super94 HTA I mentioned (which I have an ulterior motive of just wanting to see how mental they would be on an RB haha) ;)

What would be good for response and power to go for precision turbo?

Looking power terms 450 500hp

Not to laggy as mainly daily street driven.

Don't know much about single setups I've got 33 Gtr stock turbos looking for something different soonish.

Regards

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...