Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I run a 5558 0.63a/r low mounted stock position on 98, 286rwkw at 16psi- was tuned on 18psi, wana take it up to as high as possible -is 23psi do-able safely and how much rwkw should I expect? No e85 -its a daily.

Theres only one other guy on SAU that I know who runs the 5558 on a 34 aswl- he made 392rwkw on e85 high mounted and with ffp.

Got a link to that result? I know of someone who made around 370rwkw with cams, FFP, high mounted etc but not other than that. Do you have those supporting mods, or stock manifolds?

That guy was Kurtis from central coast, tuned by Jez-black 34 sedan- up on youtube aswl, I think its on this thread too, yes I have the usual support mods but no ffp and stock mani, 40mm gate

Gates hanging off rear housing btw, plumbed back -no ghey screamer etc. 23psi please lol. JEM stopped at 18, said it was heating up. I have coated the intake pipes over engine in exhaust wrap and removed the coolant bypass thru throttle body (big difference in getting rid of heating and response, was surprised). Now I can easily touch the intake pipe past throttle body and over injectors with my hand after some high boost redlining runs lol.

Yep that is who I was talking about too, except he made 372kw. I suspect your stock manifolds will quite quickly start making getting any more power on pump gas quite a bit harder as you start pushing past the point you are at now

  • Like 1

Yep that is who I was talking about too, except he made 372kw. I suspect your stock manifolds will quite quickly start making getting any more power on pump gas quite a bit harder as you start pushing past the point you are at now

I know. Im just really really hoping to push a smidge past 315-320rwkw like stao has done with his various turbos- I'm after the kick in guts feeling. Whats the highest boost a stock RB25 on 98 has seen safely? I havent seen past 23psi on SAU.

Thats around the limit really of boost on 98 as things start getting hot and detonation starts unfortunately. If not interested in e85 id suggest a water methanol set up. You shojld see close to what you want in power wise with w/m

I know. Im just really really hoping to push a smidge past 315-320rwkw like stao has done with his various turbos- I'm after the kick in guts feeling. Whats the highest boost a stock RB25 on 98 has seen safely? I havent seen past 23psi on SAU.

I can't know for sure, but I know I wouldn't have the confidence to book a dyno tune hoping that much power at JEM on the stock exhaust manifold and a .63a/r housing personally. Remember Stao runs his cars on a hub dyno, and uses a Brae exhaust manifold... one way or another it is quite likely to make things much easier to make that kind of power, especially as the boost gets up.

I'd expect a PT5558 should be able to flow a bit better than a GT3076R - but you'll need the whole setup to be up to the standard of making that power on 98.

I did consider wmi since its a daily, but seeing as its not popular I rang up n spoke to Mark from Unigroup, hes not a fan of it either and said he wouldnt bother with it, said theres a few things that could go wrong if not setup right yada yada

I know my stock mani and 98 fuel is the limiting factor here, but stao was making good power well past 300rwkw on stock mani before he got the Brae mani, what I didnt know was that his is a hub dyno lol, so maybe thats why.. What are your thoughts on wmi Lith, yay or nay, I have read the threads btw, and remember Kurtis was also on the 0.63a/r 5558, but he had a aftermarket mani

You need to remember Stao is not running the same turbo as you. You shouldn't be comparing what he got unless you are running the same turbo.

In your case the turbo has a much smaller exhaust housing to give you the spool effect you are after. Staos turbo is running a larger housing which will help fend off detonation.

In my own case 23psi was also the limit of 98. I was getting ping at that level.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...