Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Boys and Girls,

In the market for a new boost controller as I'm only running a GFB bleed valve at the moment.

Did a search through the form for what people think of various controllers and didnt really find alot of info.

So im just looking for what people have used and found to be good etc etc.

Car is 32 GTR, forged, bigger turbos, lost of boost etc etc.

Note:I'm running PFC with Z32 AFM to be added soon and would greatly prefer stay with the FC.

Cheers,

Mitch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314165-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

best controller to use to date (for me) is the AVCR.

have also seen excellent results from the greddy profec B spec 2 and blitz dual SBC.

personally think eboost2 is best at holding boost (from what ive seen)

and hate anything HKS (havent seen one work to a satisfactory standard yet professionally tuned or not)

FYI PFC boost control kit is similar to the AVCR for use.

GL

The ACV-R is not, it is older tech now by many years.

All you need to do is find a dual-stage solenoid one.

Anything like a Blitz Dual SBC, HKS EVC 4,5,6 - are all excellent choices in the dual solenoid department.

Like most things, totally comes down to whoever is setting it up understanding the finer details. Setting up a EBC isn't rocket science but sometimes people set the gain incorrectly and get poor boost curves and so on.

having extensively used EVC 3 4 5 and 6 I have to disagree and say they dont belong on that list.

cars i have seen them work well on were cars that could run actuator pressure faultlessly, and the only car ive seen run highboost successfully with an evc was an evo9 with a 1.5 bar actuator. funnily enough it was running....... 1.5 bar.

other cases were cars running mild boost ups that would run consistent boost levels off straight actuator pressure. anyone experiencing a pressure drop off the actuator could never tune it out with the evc, and thats professional tuners inclusive (no names).

to run big boost id be looking at a eboost2. i know of one running a flat 27psi from threshold to redline on a 15yo 10 pound actuator.

I have the PFC boost control kit, it does the job, doesnt spike, I havent had a problem with it

I do agree its probably older technology and theres better out there but if you want to keep your interior free of extra gauges, units whatever then the PFC Boost control kit is good cause you can just control it through your hand controller... if you dont have a handcontroller then yeh probably go with something else lol

having extensively used EVC 3 4 5 and 6 I have to disagree and say they dont belong on that list.

cars i have seen them work well on were cars that could run actuator pressure faultlessly, and the only car ive seen run highboost successfully with an evc was an evo9 with a 1.5 bar actuator. funnily enough it was running....... 1.5 bar.

other cases were cars running mild boost ups that would run consistent boost levels off straight actuator pressure. anyone experiencing a pressure drop off the actuator could never tune it out with the evc, and thats professional tuners inclusive (no names).

to run big boost id be looking at a eboost2. i know of one running a flat 27psi from threshold to redline on a 15yo 10 pound actuator.

Like i said - always comes down to whoever is setting it up most of the time.

I know 3 friends that ran them without issue. One currenty in a car now... works fine!

Most of the time, yes, but not when I'm working on it >_<

As for the eboost2, I cant honestly be totally sure as Ive only seen it in one car, but it was definitely most impressive. Yet reference some of the BIG drag cars with BIG boost and they also run the eboost2, so that's saying something. I don't mean 30 pounds either lol.

forget about solution mode, what do you want the boost controller to do?

if you just want a single fixed boost, then just skip everything and pick the most suitable sized actuator spring

no need for controllers, wires, etc etc, if you want to bleed more out / run 2 stage then go from there

forget about solution mode, what do you want the boost controller to do?

if you just want a single fixed boost, then just skip everything and pick the most suitable sized actuator spring

no need for controllers, wires, etc etc, if you want to bleed more out / run 2 stage then go from there

I would like to be able to run 2 stage, have high low settings, i've heard some of the models can change boost settings in each gear >? 

scramble boost is a pretty cool little trick but it isnt necessary.

Cant really fauly the Blitz SBC R for the price at the moment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...