Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

ive got my bloody hicas light coming on after about 10 or so mins of driving on my R32 GTR

it has an aftermarket steering wheel, and the diagnosic test said this is the problem..

my question is how do i get to the steering angle sensor ? i know its behind the steering wheel but what does it look like?

anybody have photos or a step by step guide on how get to it?

also when i do get to it, what needs to be done to it, what do i clean? align ? etc

sorry about all the questions but its driving my crazy !!

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314341-steering-angle-sensor/
Share on other sites

was it doing it before the aftermarket wheel? if your aftermarket steerng wheel is causing the problem, check that you have got a proper hicas boss kit.

i dont know if there's any maintenance you can do on the angle sensor. i guess check for dry solder joints on the circuit board, and maybe blow it out wih compressed air for good measure?

this is what mine looks like. from a S1 r33 with no airbag.

it sits behind the steering column shroud. easy to take out once you have the wheel and shroud off. just 4 screws and a plug

post-29392-1269941781_thumb.jpg post-29392-1269941829_thumb.jpg

thanks mate !

i bought it with a nardi steering wheel, so i didnt touch it....i dont think it has a boss kit? arnt boss kits so you can remove ur steering wheel? the steering wheel is not removable its bolted on

i will sus it out anywayz, make sure everything is cleaned up

can you align the discs on the angle sensor? are they markings on the discs that i should take note of?

no you cant align it. the stock steering wheel, or an appropriate boss kit, will have holes in the back of it to accommodate the arms sticking out of the angle sensor. when you turn your wheel, the sensor turns with it.

thats how i understand it anyway.

also, yes you do have a boss kit. your nardi wheel is bolted to it with 6 bolts around the horn button. the boss kit is what attaches your wheel to your steering column.

  • 4 weeks later...

just read on previous posts that the hicas light will go on if the brake fluid is low on R32's ? i just realised mine is disconnected ?! where does it go, cant seem to find the place to plug it into !! so the connector is just hanging there ?

i think the brake fluid container has recently been changed, maybe for compliance?

what to do hmmmm

  • 6 years later...

thought i would revive an old thread. cant seem to find what i need to find searching.

im fitting a nardi wheel with a saas bosskit which has the holes to properly house the two plastic parts for the steering sensor.

the bosskit has 2 sets of universal holes for different wheels to adapt, for my wheel to align it is on a 30deg (ish) angle to the locators. this is easy to fix as i just turn the locator to suit keeping the wheel aligned with the spline.

 

will this cause issues with the steering sensor and hicas? does this need to be inline with the spline or does this just start locating electronically on start up in relation to where it started from?

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...