Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5's and 7's yes, 9's no

Ever driven a stock supra twin turbo? Im certain 9's on a 3L would feel the same, its too responsive and feels like it seriously lacks top end

7's, build rb26/30 with 260 cams and lots of boost. Try catching that on a hillclimb!

you cant beat the stock supras for response, full boost at 1500rpm then a bit of a surge around 4500 where the second turbo comes on.

  • Replies 378
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah that's how mine drives, but the first turbo is never off, the second you touch the pedal you can hear the turbo

I honestly think it's too responsive and the downside is that of course you can have too much response that power suffers

Still, I'd love to try some 5's and 7's on my setup or this hideck-it would be all kinds of fun :(

  • 1 month later...

A little...

Purchased a trust extension front pipe and a few other parts last week so I have everything thats needed to put the engine in the car now. The front pipe off being ceramic coated. The plan is to have the engine in the car and driving inside a month. I'll be posting pics of the entire process once it starts.

Cheers,

Ian

  • 3 weeks later...

I stripped out the engine bay of the car and removed the spliter and under trays yesterday in preporation for next week when the new engine will be fitted.

The car will be trailered to a workshop this tuesday and with any luck will have the new engine installed by thursday. Im having CV's rebuilt and a bunch of other small small maintenance things done at the same time.

The workshop doing the r&r are allowing me to take a few photo's along the way too, so i'll post up the installation images at some stage.

Edited by GTRNUR

Here's the latest...

The engine now has ceramic coated Trust 3" extension dumps bolted to the GTRS's. Ive not had the front pipe section coated yet as I'm not sure how much material will need to be added in order to get the pipes to clear the bodywork... factoring in the 20mm height gain of the high deck.

The car is currently on the hoist and will with any luck have the engine back in there by wednesday next week. The workshop is flat out at the moment, but thats ok.. I'm not in any hurry.

And here's a a few pics...

(sorry to see your selling all your stuff too Richard, epsecially the prime garage engine).

post-26553-1287727604_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1287727630_thumb.jpg

Im picking up the car from the workshop tomorrow morning. The engine is in and the basics are all connected. Only have intercooler/intake piping to do over the next few days and with any luck i'll be driving on the weekend.

The only fitment issue so far was the flanges on the trust dump pipes were close to the floor, so a a little bit of massaging fixed that. The Y pipe also needed about 2 inches of material added to get them low enough to round the bend and run parallel to the floor.

Here's a couple of pictures of the re-assembly.

Cheers,

Ian

post-26553-1288085014_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288085023_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288085040_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288085051_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288085062_thumb.jpg

Picked up the car today at 10am, and started putting it together again after lunch. All in all I made good progress, and the only things remaining to do to prevent a road test was that I didnt buy enough coolant, and I need a flange to finish the exhaust.

Re-installation of everything went really well. Im actually amazed at how well it all still fitted together. Ive taken a few pics of the re-assembly.

The return spliter pipe from the bovs bolted straight on with just a little more bending of the front hose required. The 80mm pipe from the twin turbo pipe to the intercooler fitted without modification, as the standard piping on the passenger side of the car was plenty long enough. The tape line shows how much of the pipe actually was still inside the rubber hose.

Getting the airbox back in was a little tricky, as the air supply hose to the front turbo has to be compressed a little. The spring in it prevents it from colapsing. I always have trouble getting that hose back onto the MAF sensors, so I dont think it was any more difficult than usual.

The airbox bolted back in place with no alterations. Standard cold air scoop installed for the moment. I'd like to source a nismo one perhaps one of those fancy gruppe carbon air boxes for it down the track.

Drivers side I had to cut and insert 60mm of 80mm tube into the return hose. The extra length required here was 25mm.

New billion hose kit installed un-modified on the pwr radiator installed, no problems. If anything I could hace shortened the top hose about 10mm as the height puts it closer to the top hose connection on the radiator.

I did actually start and run the engine for all of 5 seconds. Electrically everything worked, and oil pressure was good. Still have plenty to do before doing a road test though. Hope to be able to take it for a test drive on the weekend, and I'll be booking some dyno time mid next week to do the engine run in and more testing. I'll be taking video of the whole process.

That is all.

post-26553-1288171758_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288171772_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288171797_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288171808_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288171822_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288171842_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288171861_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288171874_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288171889_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288171902_thumb.jpg

post-26553-1288171915_thumb.jpg

I love how it looks dead stock but is hiding 3L and the engine numbers match :blink:

Vehicle must appear to be stock... Monster Garage! That has actually been a part of the goal from the start, as per what we are told of the RPMGTR RB29 apparently looking stock under the bonnet. If I can do the same and make 450awkw, well I think I will have really achieved something.

Speaking of achiving, the car is now running. I finished the last of the exhaust mods this afternoon, started the car and bled the power steering. Then spent a few hours chasing a vacuum leak that continues to elude me. Im pretty sure that its the passenger side hot pipe hose that goes to the intercooler piping, and that I will be lengthening that pipe a little after all.

Here's a video link of the engine running. Throttle response seems nice too, especially considering its runn a tame ~25 degrees ignition when the throttle is cracked open.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viAUjT4sNsQ

The engine is now running with a power fc, and you can see that from the tracking when I rev the engine and close the throttle the airflow still remains high indicating the air flow sensors are still seeing airflow, so it over fuels the engine and nearly stalls it out.

Unfortunatly ive got a full days work tomorrow so im not too sure i'll be chasing this hickup tomorrow afternoon, or if it will be a weekend task.

Cheers,

Ian

Standby... fixing the sound...

Yes its Beer Baron's old R34. I nearly said havent changed much on the car... then I re-thought that statement!

Edited by GTRNUR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...