Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im lookin and gettin a different diff i have a r32 skyline it has the stock lsd but is still cutting one wheel even now and then what diff would be best for a street car i want somethink that is almost locked but has a bit of play for turning sharp eg parking and somethink that isnt heeps loud if possaible

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314404-what-diff-is-best/
Share on other sites

A good cheap way to have a tighter diff is retain the stock LSD, but 'shim' it up. By adding extra preload shims (which are around $10 each), the diff will be a lot tighter.

From factory you are supposed to have two 0.80mm shims inside the diff centre. So that's a total of 1.60mm of preload.

You can use this guide here to show exactly how to shim your diff.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...l=shimming+diff

There's a lot of discussion on what shims should be used, I ended up buying the shims from my local Nissan dealer. I ended up having 2.45mm of preload. It skipped the inside wheel pretty bad for about a week and then it loosened up just a tad. Still feels very firm is very predictable when driving or drifting.

Just have a read of that tutorial link and it may give you some ideas.

-Jimmy.

Edited by -Jimmy-
  • 3 weeks later...
I have a Nismo GT Pro 2-way.. harsh, clunky, noisy, super predictable. I love it :D

It's not for everyone though.

got the same one. I love it!! Even though people ask if my car is broken all the time when they hear it haha

got the same one. I love it!! Even though people ask if my car is broken all the time when they hear it haha

Do you get mothers clutching their babies when you drive through carparks? lol

But yes, if you buy an aftermarket LSD, you just get the centre (my Nismo 2-way actually came with new halfshaft flanges, crown wheel bolts, gasket and some Nismo oil).

Because I was changing ratios when I put mine in, I sourced an S13 auto complete diff (in housing) and dropped that off along with my new centre to my diff guy. I then swapped the housing myself up at the workshop (so I still have my stock 4.3:1 geared diff/housing at home if needed in the future).

Edited by bubba
I have a Nismo GT Pro 2-way.. harsh, clunky, noisy, super predictable. I love it :cool:

It's not for everyone though.

I just fitted the Nismo GT Pro TT 1.5 way.

Clunky, yes but only when cold and at slow speeds around corners.

Wouldn't call it harsh, but certainly bites. I've left it on middle initial torque setting but probably should have turned it down to low for the break in.

Good thing about having an adjustable spring is, once the plates are worn , just crank up the spring a notch and off you go. Expect longer life out of it. Not many diffs have this feature.

After it's properly bed in, it's best to adjust the torque setting to suit your car and driving style.

Can't compare the difference between the viscous stock and this.

You just have a feeling of complete control as the car feels so tight.

Way more grip around corners even when wet, which surprised me. The car seems to track differently but seems to point exactly where you want it to.

Today on a quiet road, rolling slow, put it in 2nd, pressed in the clutch, booted it, dropped the clutch and she just kept straight until I ran out of road. Just a smooth wheel spin with no shudder. Could have let go of the wheel, but not very wise.

As bubba says 'super predictable'.

Absolutely love it. :D

as Jimmy said, if u swing a spaner. just drop the diff and shim it, i did it to the R200 i had in my Sil drift car, i put to of the biggest shims nissan sell in it. Made it a locker basicly. after 2 drift nights, it was free enough to not skip the inside wheel when driving round the pits at the track.

its the cheapest way out, if you want top shelf hear and to spend some cash... than go the nismo!

I got a tomei Trax advance. 2 way LSD

cluncks, chatters and likes to chew up rubber in tight corners. Not so good in carparks either, sreeches wheels and carries on. Can also be a bit of a handful in the wet too if your not on the ball, especially when boost comes in.

Bloody brilliant though, incredibly predictable and the grip is amazing!!! The difference between the stock VLSD and a proper 2 way is just huge! The predictability and grip is ten fold as good.

Its not for everyone and unless your prepared to put up with the harshness of a proper mech diff, dont get one.

Get a GTR diff. thats mech 2 way too, re-shim it with some smaller shims so as it doesnt feel "locked" and doesn't bite as hard. Best and cheapest option for a streeter id say. Bear in mind the gearing is different so the speedo will be out.

Can ask though, what are the reasons for wanting upgrade the diff? Does the car see much trackwork? Drift? etc.

I got a tomei Trax advance. 2 way LSD

cluncks, chatters and likes to chew up rubber in tight corners. Not so good in carparks either, sreeches wheels and carries on. Can also be a bit of a handful in the wet too if your not on the ball, especially when boost comes in.

Bloody brilliant though, incredibly predictable and the grip is amazing!!! The difference between the stock VLSD and a proper 2 way is just huge! The predictability and grip is ten fold as good.

Its not for everyone and unless your prepared to put up with the harshness of a proper mech diff, dont get one.

Get a GTR diff. thats mech 2 way too, re-shim it with some smaller shims so as it doesnt feel "locked" and doesn't bite as hard. Best and cheapest option for a streeter id say. Bear in mind the gearing is different so the speedo will be out.

Can ask though, what are the reasons for wanting upgrade the diff? Does the car see much trackwork? Drift? etc.

One good reason for an upgrade is mine:

The stock viscous in the GTS-T isn't designed to cope with high horsepower, never mind the torque of the 3.0.

I was sideways more times than I can remember and it really gave me the sh>&%$.

Sometimes it would hold but the wheels would shudder on launch, other times the ass would flick out like a bitch. Happened really bad once at Oran Park, felt like i was going to flip over.

Having that unpredictability in the back of your head with 337 rwkw defeated the purpose of building the car.

GTR diffs are certainly a good option, however don't you have to replace the rear axles and wheel hubs to GTR also?

That'll all add up.

Got a GTR rear put in mine, yes the axles and half shafts need to be replaced, I got the whole rear replaced, was tightened up a bit but as it doubles as a streeter I didn't want it to tight, much better feel on the track with no spinning one wheel coming out of corners and very drivable on the street.

Cost around $1500 for the supply and install.

how long would you expect a shimed diff do last,

ive been told that if you change all the plates to nismo ones that it will take what ever you do to it.

i dont know if this is true or not the cost is $850 diff out, new plates, diff in drive away

yes or no

I cannot answer how longer re-shimming would last but the larger axles and shafts means they are not going to break to easy, GTR shafts look much stronger than the GTS-T ones that came out, so the extra supporting mods was why I went the whole diff swap as apposed to just the center.

Anyone got some info on this, circuit, drag stuff with grip tyres, see what happens when they are being used in high load applications.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...