Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey SAU'ers, nissan noob here.

i have just engine swapped a rb20 into my silvia. and i have a slight problem

the cyclinder 5 is not working. now my question to you guys is what is a good way to check wether my coild pack needs replacing or the injector.

i have yet to swap around coilpacks, i have just got new spark plugs but the old ones seem to be good (blitz brand and good colour) except for cyclinder 5 which is black.

from this observation am i alright to assume that there is fuel getting in but no spark occuring.

the car is pulled apart at the moment and i thought id post on here before jumping into it.

there is another thread just like this one and i got some good info from it, but just wondering if my assumption on the spark not firing is correct judging that the plug itself has tuirned black

thanks for any replies

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315153-coilpack-or-injector/
Share on other sites

Easy test. Remove the coilpacks plug from cylinder 5 and fire it up. If the car runs the same (like crap) that's your problem

i did this already to work out that cyclinder 5 is the one with the problem, as i removed plug and the sound did not change.

but is this for sure mean the coilpack is damaged ? couldnt it be fuel injector

A black spark tip usually signifies poor combustion, rather than no combustion.

Do you have compression in #5? Poor compression could cause poor combustion of the air/fuel mix.

Clean #5 plug, to make sure it will fire correctly (if it's going to fire). Swap #5 coil with another cylinder, and observe which cylinder now has the problem.

i like how you say "just" and a "slight" problem

dude youve done a complete engine swap., there could be a million things wrong

check basics, recheck your wiring , plugs, run stock ecu diag, check all wiring, check all sensors

i like how you say "just" and a "slight" problem

dude youve done a complete engine swap., there could be a million things wrong

check basics, recheck your wiring , plugs, run stock ecu diag, check all wiring, check all sensors

thanks for the help guys

to list iam going to do a compression check first before anything and then a coil pack swap with the other cyclinder. and use the new ngk plugs i got.

i checked the wiring today, and iam about to do a ohms test on my 5 cyclinder coilpack so i will post results, if this is even possible lol.

Blind_elk: thanks for that info, i will check compression asap and coil swap. atm i just wanna kill myself, i broke the peice of shit connector ontop of coil 4 lol. so i gotta get one of those and solder it on

paul r33 if your who i think you are, thanks for all the topics you had. i read alot of your posts, never thought id ever talk to you lol.

iam usually on nico forum, and they refer to most of your posts from that website you had. they love RB's

i have done stock ecu diagnostics, returning a code 55. so yeah no help there from stock ecu. if it was wired wrong it would return what error but ? ignition ?

thanks guys.

edit. how bad is it ive been driving the car for a while, about 4 days? ...and kinda drifting everynight for 4 nights since ive finished the swap

didnt even really notice because i daily a wrx with a exhaust LOL. my hearing is already quite impaired from this lol

Edited by hisoka

If you've got an ignition lead just plug it in between the spark plug and shove the other end in the coil, and use a timing light on it, if its flashing you have spark. Could also unplug the fuel pump, start the car until it stalls, then take out the spark plug and ground it against something while turning the car over. You should be able to see a spark. Otherwise its likely to be a fuel issue.

If you've got an ignition lead just plug it in between the spark plug and shove the other end in the coil, and use a timing light on it, if its flashing you have spark. Could also unplug the fuel pump, start the car until it stalls, then take out the spark plug and ground it against something while turning the car over. You should be able to see a spark. Otherwise its likely to be a fuel issue.

lol thanks man. why didnt i think of this.

will do this

hey guys. for future reference to anyone who thinks they have a coilpack gone and have not been able to swap with other cyclinder.

the easiest way, is to get a multimeter and do a ohms test on positive and negative. the reading will be open line.(no resistance)

i can confirm this works, as today i found out that my coilpack has no resistance. this is the damaged coil pack. my working one

has a resistance.

thank you guys for help. and now heres another way you guys can tell people to check packs, it takes 10 seconds. cheers

Edited by hisoka

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
    • You have a knack for photography my friend. It makes the 86 look like a complete bucket. The 34 went with you to Europe and back. It's special. (we all feel the same about our 'shitboxes' that every bystander seems to absolutely love)
×
×
  • Create New...