Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was over at a mates place this week and we were just having a look around his shed.....(where my motor is being stored atm)....and his son has had some mates around so they have taken the cover off...and wasps have built some pretty little mud castles in the intake ports.....(motor has no manifolds on it)

What can i do...

Head off job? or....

(deep sigh)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/
Share on other sites

Turnthe engine on its side on an engine stand, one cylinder at a time turn engine until cylinder is in compression stroke (vavles closed) break away nests, air blower, hope for the best.

One of those fibre optic cameras would handy be handy aswel

Edited by aleks
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5165491
Share on other sites

Leave wasps alone. They get very narky when you disturb their nest or spray insect spray in their general direction - particularly European wasps. Unlike bees, they can sting multiple times (they don't lose their stinger).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5165499
Share on other sites

If they have gone up the exhaust they may have nested inside the cylinder, the one with the valve open. I worked on a pump motor from a farm with wasps nesting like this and it wasn't worth rebuilding. The clay gets into everything, little buggers.

Definitely need to pull the head off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5165767
Share on other sites

Ok i went to the head shop today (super flow heads), I was told if i can give it to him with no cams in it. Then to have it acid dipped, new seals, and machined, would cost me between 300-400 dollars.

Does this seem about right?

So this leads me to this, would i have much problems pulling out the cams, and then re installing them again (or maybe aftermarket 256's or something...).

I can get a genuine nissan vrs kit, for approx. $380, so i would provide the seals, (this should bring the cost down a tad).

And would i really need to machining?

I have no idea tbh when it comes to doing any work on the heads this will be the first time i've taken one off and put it back on myself so yeah...dun wanna mess it up..

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5166809
Share on other sites

Price sounds good.

And the valve stem seals are worth nothing really, so won't be a huge saving there.

I payed $550 for mine with a crack and pressure test.

The machine they normally do is just a tidy up (skim the surface and enough to make sure valves seal properly)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5166883
Share on other sites

May as well keep it all in this thread, down the track the motor will probably have between 15-18psi getting pushed around it, would you guys reccomend using a metal head gasket? I had a quick look around the site, and from what i can tell the cometic head gaskets and the such wont sell properly unless i have both surfaces perfectly true...would this be the case if i wanted to run any sort of metal gasket, so machining would be in order for both the head and block?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5167119
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...