Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've always been happy with Advance Tyres in Richmond/Burnley. Always great prices, service, they even wash your wheels which is a rarity these days. Every time I go there it's always full of imports.

be careful with skyline & cheap tyres

if it has some mild power i wouldn't be short cutting on tyres

265 18s wont be cheap no matter what you get, please be careful

265's are very expensive i found out. :P

My price range would be about $200 a Tyre.

Ive got some quotes but looks like i can only get Sumitomo's or Nankang's. What would be the better option? I know there not the best but its all i can afford atm.

Go to the Tyrepower at Hawthorn. They take care of tyres for track cars from Chasers and they give a decent price.

Micky is the person to look for. Ask him what he can recommend you for your budget. As what Paul said, you should be careful about what you choose for your tyres. They are the most important link between your car and the road. I wouldn't be stingy over tyres.

Suggest you budget more than $200 a corner if possible for your 265s.

Ye if you want 265s in 18's - your going to have to go above $200 IMO for a decent tyre. :P

Or drop back to a 245 and put the money saved towards a better tyre which would likely perform better than the cheaper 265!

I've always been happy with Advance Tyres in Richmond/Burnley. Always great prices, service, they even wash your wheels which is a rarity these days. Every time I go there it's always full of imports.

Yer Ricky is a champ! Real nice guy to deal with.

Im after some 265/35/18 road tyres and some tyres for the misses swift. Nothing too special. :P

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Federal-Tyre-595-SS...=item335b3d600c

This is about as cheap as you'll get in a decent tyre IMO. But I recommend going the 235's as they are only $167 a corner. Or 265's on the back and 235's up front.

Yer Ricky is a champ! Real nice guy to deal with.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Federal-Tyre-595-SS...=item335b3d600c

This is about as cheap as you'll get in a decent tyre IMO. But I recommend going the 235's as they are only $167 a corner. Or 265's on the back and 235's up front.

My fronts are fine just the rear 265s that need replacing as i bought them previously 2nd hand. So i only need 2 x 265's. Dont really want to go smaller as the 265 look aggressive with my works on the rear. I would go 275, but i would then need to roll my guards.

What would be the best tyre for under $300 each in a 265 18? Anyone purchased any lately?

You could also try http://www.option1garage.com.au/NewTyres.htm KU36's are just out of your price range if you wanted something that's pretty good, maybe KU31? Or the Federal 595 SS if its still on special, they were very cheap 1-2 weeks ago.

EDIT: it was 40% or so off a week or two ago but the current prices on 595 SS are cheap 265/35/18 $201.00 .... just out of your price range. It cost about $80 to get the tyres via courier from Queensland to Melb (I think)

I got 255/40/17 in Federal 595RSR's, a high end (non R compound) motor sport tyre, excellent dry weather, not good for wet weather. And I got it for under $300 each including postage recently, check with Option1 if the special is still on, the special was all Federal tyres and 595SS was a lot cheaper than the RSR.

go to tyrepower hawthorne and ask for mickey, and tell him hamish from SAU sent ya... he'll sort you out

you'll probably manage to get some ku36's

also

access auto's in vermont sell federal tyres with an SAU discount... they are pretty good on the prices for 595ss 's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...