Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello boys, i have finally saved the money for a R33 GTR.

So i would just like to ask someone who owns or has previously owned an R33 GTR, and that could tell me what i should know when buying and when owning one, such as costs of maintaining it etc etc?

The GTR i get, ill be pumping it to 270-300KWs so it will have just light mods, exhaust and boost, keeping it street legal so police cant defect me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316301-owning-a-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

Well first off, you won't make 300RWKW with just light mods, although given you have money for a GTR perhaps they would be classed as light money wise :D

The GTR only really differs in the engine compartment, most of the rest of it uses similar/same specced parts (read: same price to fix when broken), so it is really only the engine bay you have to worry about.

I've never owned, but considering the high similarity for engine components there shouldn't be much difference to a 33GTST or 32/34GTR for that matter.

Basically, you can abuse the engine and other parts more, but they will be 20-50% more expensive to fix if you break, mostly in parts cost, somewhat in labor (RB26DETT is a bit more time consuming to work with, dual turbos etc).

the whole drivetrain is different and so are the brakes and panels. getting it serviced will cost more than a gts-t, also tyres will be more expensive because they run fatter rubber. in my opinion everything about a gtr is more expensive than a gt-t or gts-t. forgot to add r33 and r33 gtr has the same gearbox but the r34 gtr is different.

Million dollar question... If you found something thats in very good condition, why would you be spending more? If something did break, of course it'll be more exp than a single turbo car. This applies to any twins. I dont have any issue with my 33gtr at all since buying it 1 year ago and running 250awkw now. You wouldnt be pushing 300awkw with stock gtr turbos at all. You'll be looking at 250awkw.

As BNCR33 said, changing turbos is an expensive process. GT-SS will be around 3.5k, dumps will be 500 and labour will be easily 1k. Thats 5k all up excluding your ecu, boost controller etc...

Maintenance wise it'll be the same as any other AWD cars if its mechanically A1.

300kw is piss easy in a gtr, as you say light mods.

I spend about $8K a year on mine all up (incl rego, insurance, fuel and everything else), but i'm always doing extra stuff to it. This year will be more like $12k due to turbo replacement...

My recipe for 300kw is;

Less than $2.6K for turbos (2860-7s)

$500 for seimens injectors

$400 for Nistune

$340 for modified xforce dumps (car already had dump back)

$850 for CRD tune (other places would be less)

Around $1K for labour

I'd do the turbos (and dumps if ever going to do them) straight away after getting the car. All the other stuff can wait.

I dont call fitting new turbo's light mods. To the OP, if you buy a GTR that is in good cond it wont cost you very much at all weekly wise. I budget $150 a week . That inc everything. And its my daily ride too. Look after it and it will look after you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...