Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I had a quick search and I could not find any threads dedicated to this question.

I am looking at tires for an aprox 400 awhp R32 GTR - I have used and were happy with KU36's in the past, but there is a two week wait on my supplier. I have available to me federal RSR's for aprox $50 a corner more.

Basically my question is, are they worth the extra money?

Car is used for both track and street duties. I am worried the RSR, being a proper semi, as opposed to the KU36's compromise, will go to waste on the street.

If anyone has used both, please let me know.

Regards,

Ian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316924-ku36-vs-federal-rsr/
Share on other sites

I havent used either (so this post wont have a lot of value) but have been researching these two for a while. I figure with 400hp you want all the grip you can get. The RSRs are still S spec like KU36s (not R spec aka proper semi), but are stickier so wont last quite as long (treadwear 140 vs 180). I've been tossing up between these two, and am going to go with RSRs. The $200 is what, 3 tanks of fuel? :-)

There are other threads on this....

Hi All

I had a quick search and I could not find any threads dedicated to this question.

I am looking at tires for an aprox 400 awhp R32 GTR - I have used and were happy with KU36's in the past, but there is a two week wait on my supplier. I have available to me federal RSR's for aprox $50 a corner more.

Basically my question is, are they worth the extra money?

Car is used for both track and street duties. I am worried the RSR, being a proper semi, as opposed to the KU36's compromise, will go to waste on the street.

If anyone has used both, please let me know.

Regards,

Ian

I'm in a similar situation except mine doesn't see the track, so the "street" semi slicks are a perfect choice for me.

I'm tossing up between KU36/RT615/595RSR & Neova AD08's. Kumho & Falken are priced similar, with Federals about $200 dearer........ the Yokohama's push you up another $400+ :ermm:

I'd like to try the AD08's but I haven't been able to find any feedback on them & we're starting to talk SERIOUS $$$$. I've used their AVS sports, and they were really good till they got to half worn..... then they went downhill REAL fast. It's a lot of money for a tyre that is only usuable for half it's life.

RSR are worth the extra $50. (o1g had my size on special and got them for the same price as ku36)

i had RS (older RSR), then went to KU36 and now back in RSR.

the KU36 are great for the cheap price, my RS lasted much longer than KU36 and provided better grip over a number of laps.

the KU36 good n cheap, but now the RSR are cheaper. get em.

ive got 36's on my gts-t and i must say i wasnt quite as impressed as i thought id be, i have no abs and locked it up a bit too easy i thought.. Ive had re55's before, not that i was expecting the same. BUt the 36's were cheap which was why i thought id give them a go. If you plan on hitting the track id say go the sticker option even if they wont last so long.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...