Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was looking through ebay the other day and came across a full Top Secret body kit for around $520

its made of fibreglass but ive heard bad things about fibreglass kits getting shipped and cracking.

so whats your idea on ebay kits, worth it or not?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317186-body-kits-off-ebay/
Share on other sites

Its a toss of a coin, alot of people have said there shit and some have said theve got lucky and there actually decent, is it from Aus? I wouldnt get it if its from China or something.

Personally fibreglass kits are already enough trouble to fit even if they are half decent so I would rather pay a few 100 more and stick to places like carmate.com.au, just jap , jet speed etc. I have got my kit from psi parts, just jap and carmate and Im happy with the fitment but still some work is needed before your ready to spray but yeah the price was aroudn 450 for back 450 front and 300 sides so quite a bit more.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-R33-Series-1...=item19bb7ba12d

thats the link for it, could you have a look at see what you think?

you seem to know alot more then me haha:)

i only picked mine up about a month ago and im still learning the ins and outs of it.

Well a link doenst really help man, cuase you dont know until you try with bodykits lol but looking at price it seems to cheap to be decent but as I said some people have taken a chance and said it worked out and some have said it turned out to be a disaster.

Got my first front bar from car mate, sagged under drivers headlight and didnt line up that great on front guards...as you'd expect for like $400

Got my second one from jetspeed in melbourne shape was good, but instead of giving me GTR to fit GTS front bar, they accidentally gave me actual gtr front bar, so had to chop slits in it to fit properly.

First rear bar got from car mate, was horrible for fitment and shaping

Second was 400R rear bar lined up great not much work at all from jetspeed

Got sideskirts from PSI Parts Dandenong, needed a bit of work as they were warped out of shape, other than that they were awesome though

So it pays to have a look around, one way or another they all need fitment they never bolt on

  • 2 weeks later...

I'd never buy another cheap, ebay bodykit. The difference in quality between them and the genuine stuff is huge. Even the way the paint lies on it is different somehow, with the genuine stuff requiring so much less prep work to get the paint looking good, and the cheap stuff got bubbles in the resin as soon as the sun heated it up.

Depending on what style you want you can get cheaper genuine stuff, I got a full Origin kit (one of the cheaper ones anyway) for $600 and it all bolted up without any cutting, sanding etc needed. Retained the stock reo and used all existing bumper holes too.

I guess it's same as buying a chinese turbo..enjoy that quality made product..lol.

could not be a worse comparison if your tried. You dont need to go and buy a genuine body kit for big bucks that your going to ruin anyway, my kit went on pretty much fine bit of tinkering but overall for the price i dont expect it to be perfect but it certainly does a suitable job.

engine components are a whole different ball game to some cosmetic plastic..

what site did you use and what car do you drive sparkys? ive been looking for cheap bodykits for ages but i cant find any. they want to charge like $600 for one piece rather than 3.

Sorry took so long to reply, didn't check the thread and hadn't seen the question till now.

I drive an R32 GTS-T and I didn't get the kit from a website. I bought it off a friend who had it sitting in his shed from when Origin had distributors in Adelaide.

i've used an ebay fairing kit on a bike before, took some modification and was a prick to fit but looks fine. i agree with alr33x in regards to engine components, but i'm more about performance than looks and wasn't willing to spend 3-4k on appearances when i could get it 90% of the way there for 500 bucks. that extra money has now gone into getting an extra 20hp, to me it's a no brainer, go for it.

has anyone here bought a REAL KIT? and then compare it to a copy kit?

I have a copy BN Sport kit from ebay and i couldn't be more than happy with the quality of the kit. One think you need to remember is that the kit is fiberglass so doesn't matter if your paying $200 or $2000 it will never be as straight or perfect as a FRP, Plastic or CF KIT

Was that Top secret bodykit from a dude from Vietnam? I think I saw the bodykit listed on ebay too. I am about to make an order for the widebody kit from the seller... can't really trust on reliablity though... I will let you the quality once it is fitted to my R if you are keen know the result

Edited by cooljustin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...