Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had awesome racing pedals in my last car, they were made specifically for the car and actually made a difference: They felt much better and I always noticed them (they looked great) on entering the car too which was nice.

I am after some racing pedals for my R32 GT-R. Any ideas? I have done asearch but couldn't find anything. And when I check out sites online they seem to sell a lot of different kinds of pedals but none of them sem to be specifically for the Skyline. Will all of these (Sparco, momo etc...) fit easily?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31750-the-best-racing-pedals/
Share on other sites

Well, I find the rubber ones TOO grippy at times (ie: you can't really re-position your foot on a pedal unless you raise it off the pedal 1st). I had aluminium ones with raised steel studs (I think they were illegal actually as there was no rubber on them at all) and they were great.

i also have razo metal ones, and think they r great (alittle close together gas and brake alittle close but u get use 2 it)

hehehe no such thing as too close, there's plenty of room down there for big feet....you just need to get used to it

Contary the best racing pedals are no pedals at all.

Anything that comes between your foot and the actual factory pedal further reduces feel.

Its the reason why racing shoes are made with thin soles so as to enhance feel.

So after market pedal caps (i call them those becos thats what they are...they do not actually replace the factory pedals) are actually a step back.

If pedal placement is a problem (i.e u find it hard to heel toe because the pedals are too far apart) then u can try bending the pedal stem to get the pedals to sit at the correct height and position you desire

usuckpoo: fair call. But the surface of the pedal does make a difference in feel. Steel/aluminium feels different through shoes than rubber does. And perhaps one of the major difference is visual appeal. Which IS important to some of us. As I mentioned above, when I used to hop in the Alfa, with my black Novitec pedals from Germany... I'd look at them upon entry.. they made me smile.

Ive got a metal studded brake pedal and some dodgy type r accelerator pedal. Its actually ok as it sits close to the brake, making it easy to do that cool heel and toe thingo, allbeit poorly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...