Check Your Nuts

[LSX-438]

I had to get some open wheel nuts (due to running longer studs) and i've been using ALLOY ones. I am not running then for weight saving (i just picked up what was readily available).

Anyway i've tried a few different nuts but they all seem to have issues; the thread on the inside of the nut just seems to wear away. Until eventually i found the nut failed completely (when putting it on, thank god) it was just spinning on the stud! At a recent practice day someone running the same nuts actually lost a wheel on the track, scary.

So my questions are

1. Have you guys noticed the same with alloy nuts? How often do you replace them.

2. What should we be running, steel, alloy, titanium? What are you guys running.

If you are running some alloy ones, check them out, make sure the thread looks good. Replace them if they look dodgy! (replaced mine three times thus far).

[Marlin]

I find I need to replace my alloy nuts annually, in that time they've probably been on/off up to 50 or 60 times. I've found exactly the same as you when I've failed to do that.

You must always torque alloy nuts, never rattle gun, I elect to go with 80ft/lb.

I also lightly lubricate the threads every third time with "Never Sieze".

I buy mine from Racer Industries, Aussie made ones at about $10- each from memory, much cheaper than the Jap Titanium ones that admittedly, do last longer.

Edited April 20, 2010 by Marlin

[God_speed]

Not sure what you guys make of the RAYS Duralumin nuts? They go for about $210-240 depending on where you get them, which works out to about $11/$12 per nut.

Made sure I torqued mine to 75ft lb or just over 100 Nm, although RAYS recommend 88-118Nm apparently.

[2lazy]

The cheapest are from otomoto $4.20 each, same material, they even look the same.

[LSX-438]

i've given up on the "cheap" alloy ones. need steel or titanium, anyone with links on where to buy? (unless someone can definitely vouch for a quality alloy item)

Edited April 21, 2010 by LSX-438

[LSX-438]

I find I need to replace my alloy nuts annually, in that time they've probably been on/off up to 50 or 60 times. I've found exactly the same as you when I've failed to do that.

You must always torque alloy nuts, never rattle gun, I elect to go with 80ft/lb.

I also lightly lubricate the threads every third time with "Never Sieze".

I buy mine from Racer Industries, Aussie made ones at about $10- each from memory, much cheaper than the Jap Titanium ones that admittedly, do last longer.

I've replaced mine about three times in a year! I do change them a bit because i drive the stocker wheels to the track. I do use a rattle gun but always torque wrench them too. I've tried the grease thing too, but i still seem to be chewing through them. Should i go steel or titanium i wonder?

[Ant97GTR]

I've been using the steel Rays Daytona Racing ones for close to 2 years (maybe 3). I also pull them off fairly reg to swap the track rims to road ones and so far they have held up well. Not sure how often you are hitting the track but I do around 8 a year.

Def go steel ones as the manufacturer's of the alloy ones specify that they should not be used on the track.

[Marlin]

I've replaced mine about three times in a year! I do change them a bit because i drive the stocker wheels to the track. I do use a rattle gun but always torque wrench them too. I've tried the grease thing too, but i still seem to be chewing through them. Should i go steel or titanium i wonder?

I'd think you'd be fine with either steel or titanium as long as they're a reputable make.

Rattle guns are the work of the Devil.

[2lazy]

Anyone know where I can get titanium?

[LSX-438]

I've been using the steel Rays Daytona Racing ones

Any idea where i can buy these Rays Daytona Racing steel items from?

[RBLUV]

rays nuts are the best good design and very strong

EDIT: heres a pic of them been on and off hundreds of times and plenty of drift/track days

Edited April 22, 2010 by RBLUV

[Ant97GTR]

Any idea where i can buy these Rays Daytona Racing steel items from?

I was lucky as Beer Baron was selling a set he didn't need. I'm sure most importers will be able to get you a set but I can't say I have found an aussie place that sells them.

[handbrake]

I'd think you'd be fine with either steel or titanium as long as they're a reputable make.

Rattle guns are the work of the Devil.

agree. not much more time/effort to do by hand.

[Marlin]

I tell you guys what IS the absolute best set of wheel nuts (sick aint it ) I've ever seen or used, and that's Project MU's.

If money is no object (and this is beer money for you guys), I can't recommend anything more than these. They're steel, but of a hollow design so they are still light, and they have a captive washer on them so they don't bind.

We use these on Mark's R34 time attack car, and although the wheels have been on/off literally hundreds of times, they're good as new. Got them from Racer Industries on the Gold Coast.

From memory they're around $300 per set. I'll get these next, as they've proven themseves to me as good economy. (Drip a little oil between the washer and the nut itself prior to first use, just as you would tightening head studs, they torque up beautifully)

This is the type we use;

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/o..._nut_racing.php

Edited April 22, 2010 by Marlin

[LSX-438]

agree. not much more time/effort to do by hand.

that's what i used to think until a) i got extended wheel studs and b) started using the annodised/alloy nuts (open ended, required for extended studs); they dont spin on freely you see (due to coating). the rattle gun does it in 20% the time (or less). It really is a PITA with extended studs and the alloy nuts believe me

stocker studs, nuts, easy. a few turns and they glide on/off too.

[handbrake]

mind you if i did as many track days as Dunc I would probably have a serious case of RSI from changing the wheels that often

[handbrake]

speaking of longer studs etc, I am tring to work out what I will need for the 18 x 10 wheels I will have delivered soon. These will be same offsets to suit the front on all four corners so will tuck in a bt on the rear- maybe worse than what your enkeis did dunc?

any thoughts on spacers? I have never used them before. I take it hubcentric spacers are safe at the track and I would just keep the stock length studs? anyone know of failures from well made/designed sets?

[Marlin]

Bolt on spacers make me nervous. I've held off using them even on my cheap car. With the weight and grip of the 35 any issues are only amplified.

I personally would only be happy to use steel (bolt on) spacers on a 35, and if they weren't available I'd have them made.

Sandwich spacers are a different kettle of fish, fine up to 5mm in my opinion if there's plenty of thread left or longer ARP studs are used.

Edited April 22, 2010 by Marlin

[Marlin]

that's what i used to think until a) i got extended wheel studs and b) started using the annodised/alloy nuts (open ended, required for extended studs); they dont spin on freely you see (due to coating). the rattle gun does it in 20% the time (or less). It really is a PITA with extended studs and the alloy nuts believe me

stocker studs, nuts, easy. a few turns and they glide on/off too.

Sure thing, I know your pain

IMO using a gun to wind them on like you do is AOK, but too many guys use guns to tighten them. Not so flash.

I also try to support the weight of the gun rather than let it hang off the nut.

[LSX-438]

I tell you guys what IS the absolute best set of wheel nuts (sick aint it ) I've ever seen or used, and that's Project MU's.

If money is no object (and this is beer money for you guys), I can't recommend anything more than these. They're steel, but of a hollow design so they are still light, and they have a captive washer on them so they don't bind.

We use these on Mark's R34 time attack car, and although the wheels have been on/off literally hundreds of times, they're good as new. Got them from Racer Industries on the Gold Coast.

From memory they're around $300 per set. I'll get these next, as they've proven themseves to me as good economy. (Drip a little oil between the washer and the nut itself prior to first use, just as you would tightening head studs, they torque up beautifully)

This is the type we use;

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/o..._nut_racing.php

Just called RI they seem to be $390/set. ouch.