Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz, just bought a r33 a few weeks ago and loving it.

i just dont like the way the front looks.

the front looks like its higher than the rear.

i can stick 1 finger between the rear tyre and gaurd.

the front i can stick 3 fingers (like a whore).

anyone know why?

i am not liking the looks.

anything easy i can do?

i have attached some pics. will take some of the coilover so someone can try and figure out for me if they are adjustable ones.

cheers.

love u all

vish.

Rear tyre (nice)

dsc01098qs.jpg

front (not so nice)

dsc01097d.jpg

dsc01094rq.jpg

Yeh except final cost would be around $2000 considering freight to get it from PERTH to Sydney...

Vish any suspension shop will be able to compress your springs mate, but that's actually just how the car sits. The rear guard is lower than the front, same as on a Statesman if you've seen em... Back tyres are half covered by the guards, but front tyres are clearly visible (not as extreme in your case obviously). If you draw a straight line between the rear guard and the front guard you will see what i'm talking about

lol TURBZ, as hanaldo sed i am in Perth.

Thanx for the info Martin.

Now i feel better, since u sed its normal. hahaha

I never knew that the rear gaurd was lower.

yeah maybe i will just take it to a suspension place and lower the front.

Thank you for the replies guyz :)

Yeh when they compress springs they just put a spring compressor clamp on them instead of physically cutting them.

Your best option (if you don't want to go all out with coilover suspension), would be to replace the springs with lowered king springs. Not that much more expensive than chopping or compressing, but definitely a better option.

You probably want to get your springs reset, which I guess is what people mean when they say "compressing".

http://autospeed.com.au/cms/title_Resettin...82/article.html

Changing the front height may well affect handling in a negative way if you go too far.

what bout what Martin said? replace with king springs. will that affect handling? dont want it too low. just the same height as the back so it looks level.

Does affect handling but in a good way. Stiffer springs = less body roll and better handling. As said, you don't want to lower the front too much, but a little bit shouldn't make a difference.

I'd have a chat with a good Suspension firm there in Perth and get them to do an initial evaluation including checking over what you already have > then commit to King Springs or at the time talk to Just Jap and/or others there in Perth about possibly replacing the springs with Tanabe brand or other instead. I find that Tanabe progressive springs are very good on my car as well as lowering the car by 20mm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
    • Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha
    • I don't think he's got it on a gauge and on the ECU. I think he's got it on the gauge and on the HPTuners DAq thingo. Remember, we're talking about oil temp here, not something that the ECU is actually interested in for its own sake.
×
×
  • Create New...