Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nah - probably gonna go with a single. Not 100% sure, gotta sus it out but I don't think I'll just fix it, might as well use it as an excuse to get some more power. 300rwkw would be nice! :rofl:

32godzilla,

sorry to hear about the blown turbo. Regarding your upgrade advice on the other page, I think if you are on a budget and just squeezing to get a single, it would not be a good idea. There is the problem of other associated cost later on and more importantly, the strain on the old RB26.

When I damaged one of my pistons, I was thinking of upgrading beyond the 600hp due to the "since ive already got the engine out" factor.

Mario's old GTR700 2835R's (think Marios told me Tilbrook or Munro ended up getting em) were offered to me. But after discussing with him about what they can do, it I was more concerned with how long it would last. Now im glad i didnt do it as i keep hearing of the endless cost involved with making the RB26 last. Which we mostly dont hear. So unless you are prepared to dump "ALOT" of extra cash into your car, I would advice on the GT Series upgrades. Better to enjoy the car daily than have it off road alot.

Btw N/A, thanks for the advice. I'm not intending to put anything stupid on my car like a T88 or anything. I was actually wondering whether you could get something with similar performance to a twin setup (2530's or t517z's), just something nice and simple. I don't want something that reaches full boost at 5K, and is a pig to drive, and I don't want to strain the poor old RB26 too much, so if there's no single turbo solution I won't do it.

The last thing I want to do is end up going forgies, rods etc etc....

13.1 seconds from the big full house Cobra 350 conversion John! A little disappointing for the outlay eh?

Dont feel too bad though mate, its only point three slower than my stocky Holden tonner...

Got some work to do Johnny, got some work to do!

As an aside, you racing at the Ute Muster? If so, see you there

32godzilla,

If I was in your situation I would either go GT2530 or T517/8 (for a change). However since you asked about the single setup, I do not know much about that except HKS Japan recommended the T04 might have been T04R. They said max output for HKS GT2530 with supporting equipment ofcorse is 600-630. TO4 (R?) was somewhere over 700. I think the difference though will be on what kind of GTR you are after.

for 3k or so you can get 2 sh 2350s or similar, to go a single you need turbo, manifold, gate, new oil feed lines, water lines, air filter setup etc. Its not going to be cheaper even with used parts. If your looking for 350+ rwkw then it becomes a different story, but for the performance capabilites of bolt on twins you cant go wrong, looks stock too which is a help.

Ha ha ha. You always crack me up Martin. Im happy with the 13.1 - it is a lot heavier than the VY tonner(stock!!!- felt pretty strong for a std car today - ha ha)

Besides, you seemed to like it today.Dont know why I always get the irresistable urge to

lay 2 long black lines when you are in the car!

Yep - I am planning to come out to the Ute Muster - should be a huge event.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean it's a bit late to say "This won't have any tangible effect and it is not worth spending more than about three seconds on it, please just enjoy the car" But I said it anyway. Does the pod actually get any airflow in that position behind a bumper like that?
    • Hey guys - apologies for digging this up. Has this website been shutdown or is the outage temporary?
    • So, went shopping at Just Jap for things that might work for the intake  After some trial fitting there I ended up with a 3" x 45° silicone bend, a 3" x 300mm alloy straight, and a humped joiner, some minor trimming will be required to shorten some of the stuff, but nothing that is beyond my "ham fisted" skills The guy at Just Jap was most helpful as we had all sorts of joiners,  bends and stuff out trial fitting  Laying it out above the stuff in there it seems everything will fit nicely, and looking at it, it is probably the way I should have been looking at doing it from the beginning, probably..... In the end it is a front bar off job anyway to remove the original stuff behind the front bar that is taking up the required realestate needed, so maybe a Thursday or Friday job And because I'm a hopeless consumer, I grabbed some new steel wheel nuts, the current ones are a spline drive type with a "security" socket, that somehow someone keeps misplacing, the new ones are a basic black steel 17mm hex socket In other news: I just did my "final" tax return, I am now officially a old retired veteran pensioner, and I'm milking the system for all it's worth,  life is good
    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
×
×
  • Create New...