Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
ive had two sets now, both have done this. wore the first set down past the tread wear, no problems.

Sounds like its nearly guaranteed if you had two sets do it.

How many kms did you get out of each? Track or street?

not exactly guaranteed....I've bought 2 sets of these and used for 6-18 months of road and track use with no splitting. So on the same logic you could say it is guaranteed not to happen :)

has anyone had an actual failure?

not exactly guaranteed....I've bought 2 sets of these and used for 6-18 months of road and track use with no splitting. So on the same logic you could say it is guaranteed not to happen :)

has anyone had an actual failure?

Haha true!!! How good is internet logic!! Im not that fussed or I wouldnt have ordered them anyhow.

I got them fitted last Thursday but have only had a chance to test them out in the wet, so not much of a test.. although they were confidence inspiring and surprisingly grippy in the wet.

Looking forward to some good weather so I can try them out properly.

Going from r comps my car now feels like a luxury barge with these tyres.

i got approx 20 track days out of the 595RS, plus driving to and from the track, cruise days, DECA etc. ~ 6-7,000km over 6 months

they grip well down to the wear indicators, then start to squeal and slide.

went to ku36 and did ~8 track days in 3-4 months, they are down to the wear indicators and have very little grip.

back on 595RSR now, love em. ~6 track days so far, they are wearing well. the grip is the wet and dry is fantastic.

and as i said all four have the 'line' in them this time around.

i do find the RS and RSR are not as progressive as the ku36 tho, when the federals loose grip they really let go. the ku36 seem

to give you a bit more of an indication.

i got approx 20 track days out of the 595RS, plus driving to and from the track, cruise days, DECA etc. ~ 6-7,000km over 6 months

they grip well down to the wear indicators, then start to squeal and slide.

went to ku36 and did ~8 track days in 3-4 months, they are down to the wear indicators and have very little grip.

back on 595RSR now, love em. ~6 track days so far, they are wearing well. the grip is the wet and dry is fantastic.

and as i said all four have the 'line' in them this time around.

i do find the RS and RSR are not as progressive as the ku36 tho, when the federals loose grip they really let go. the ku36 seem

to give you a bit more of an indication.

Thanks for the feeback! I plan on using them for street use only. Bit of a worry about them being relatively less progressive, I guess ill find out for myself soon enough.

Out of the KU-36 or RSR which do you prefer and can you please give some feedback about other differences between the two?

  • 8 months later...

old thread, but i'll add my 5c.

I've had this happen on a set of Hankook's and they didn't get much more than a quick burnout or 2. Nothing to worry about as long as the gap stays about that size and doesn't open up any more.

IMO those tyres are unroadworthy, and therefore you qualify for full replacement. The Fair Trading laws are strong and clear. Force them to replace the tyres, as you say its a safety issue.

I've used these for a couple of years on my stagea (circuit and road), and 350z (circuit, motorkhana skids and road) without any problems. might be a bad batch, might be bad luck...either way I would not accept anything but replacement or refund.

I had splits in 2x Nankangs on a Prelude. > Approached Blair's Tyres who are official agents in Oz > One phone call approved an immediate replacement.

Reason:- Even though these Nankangs were rated for high speed, the company felt that expansion under heat oscillating with contraction made the tyre unroadworthy.

Footnote:- Yes they're crummy tyres in the wet, but I applaud their customer service!

I have to replace my RE55s, just street driven no trackwork or hard driving, they've done around 15,000kms in over 3 years and still looking good.

It's really weird how they have gone in recent times with splits around the inside radius on all 4 tyres.

Well i have spoken to Miles at Federal today and asked if they can inspect the tyres on the car?

he said he will send me to tyres and more in south Brisbane (behind my work :) which is good)

Spoke to John (Really cool guy) at Tyres and more he inspected them called Miles at Federal tyres and I get new tyres tomorrow at lunch

The faulty tyres will be sent to federal in Brisbane for assessment by them

It’s not often I get a positive in these kinds of situations

  • 4 years later...

Bit of a thread bump but this was my experience with the 595 Rsr's.

Initially I was happy with the grip and that my understeer issue disappeared but... now.

Front tyres have eggs and don't roll in a straight line.

Left rear shows the tread having ripped away from the tyre, showing the steel belt inside. The belt has torn and there is nasty spikes of metal poking out. It has started to crack around the outside as well.

The seam/overlap join is visible on all tyres. Not exactly confidence building given that the tread is peeling away too.

My suspension guy says this is pretty common with federals and has seen it a bit recently in motorsport. But these tyres would have only seen over 200km/h on the dyno and have never had track time.

They have about 8000km on them. The mould air-release hairs are still on all the tyres. The rest of the time I am mostly stuck in 80km/h traffic with the occasional burst of acceleration.

Hope to swap these for some 4wd tyres instead from the local Federal dealer, and then off-load them to someone else.

Switching to Nitto's for the GTR.

post-26553-0-77651900-1449009603_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...