Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

stripping the 32 as ive purchased a 4 door-

gtr front bar with lip

fibreglass copy

lil bit of damage

easy repair

$150

r32 gtst stock rims

16" with rwc tread

$200 for all 4

3" front pipe(dump to cat)

good cond

$100

turbonetics 35mm external gate

$150

blown hypergear tr43 turbo

needs bearings

35mm tial copy gate welded to exhaust housing

v band dump welded to turbo

$200

rb20 r32 engine loom

$150

rb20 manual ecu

$100

stock r32gtst fuel pump in cradle

$50

rb20 auto gearbox

mint

$200

auto tailshaft

$80

r32 gtst 5 stud brake setup with hubs etc

calipers,rotors,pads,hubs etc

$500

r32 brake master cylinder and booster

$100

2X r200 lsd's

both mint one has 70k other 110k

$100 each

rb20 green label afm

$80

r32 gtst passenger seat

mint

could do with a clean

$80

r32 tail lights

$100 the pair

r32 headlights

projector style

$80 each

right hand orange indicator

$40

r32 blueface instrument cluster

130kms

$50

gktech steering wheel with boss kit

$100

r32 front subframe

$50

r32 rear subframe

$50

r32 front lca's

$100 pair

r32 stock front swaybar

$50

1992 r32 gtst bare shell with all glass,dash pad etc

green

all panels

pedal boxes

fuel tank

jap tint

reg'd in VIC

no defects ever

$500

car has til friday to sell whole then mass strippage will be happenin

0431683303

northern suburbs adelaide

post-30988-1272283272_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey mate i just need the rear 5stud hubs and brake setup.

Are you willing to separate and how much for?

Also interested in the engine loom if its for an rb20det.

Pm me.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...