Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

stripping the 32 as ive purchased a 4 door-

gtr front bar with lip

fibreglass copy

lil bit of damage

easy repair

$150

r32 gtst stock rims

16" with rwc tread

$200 for all 4

3" front pipe(dump to cat)

good cond

$100

turbonetics 35mm external gate

$150

blown hypergear tr43 turbo

needs bearings

35mm tial copy gate welded to exhaust housing

v band dump welded to turbo

$200

rb20 r32 engine loom

$150

rb20 manual ecu

$100

stock r32gtst fuel pump in cradle

$50

rb20 auto gearbox

mint

$200

auto tailshaft

$80

r32 gtst 5 stud brake setup with hubs etc

calipers,rotors,pads,hubs etc

$500

r32 brake master cylinder and booster

$100

2X r200 lsd's

both mint one has 70k other 110k

$100 each

rb20 green label afm

$80

r32 gtst passenger seat

mint

could do with a clean

$80

r32 tail lights

$100 the pair

r32 headlights

projector style

$80 each

right hand orange indicator

$40

r32 blueface instrument cluster

130kms

$50

gktech steering wheel with boss kit

$100

r32 front subframe

$50

r32 rear subframe

$50

r32 front lca's

$100 pair

r32 stock front swaybar

$50

1992 r32 gtst bare shell with all glass,dash pad etc

green

all panels

pedal boxes

fuel tank

jap tint

reg'd in VIC

no defects ever

$500

car has til friday to sell whole then mass strippage will be happenin

0431683303

northern suburbs adelaide

post-30988-1272283272_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey mate i just need the rear 5stud hubs and brake setup.

Are you willing to separate and how much for?

Also interested in the engine loom if its for an rb20det.

Pm me.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...