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Im using the Extreme TSC (local) one in mine...

my torque gauge seems to be always coming on even wen im not pressing it that much when ive got it to like 2/10 notches. (10 being max).

Thinking bout taking it off... ever since i put the boost up and made 264rwkw with other light mods its been abit on the over-active side.

Ive had a transfer case rebuild prior to this installation... i dno if these things are good for the t/c case.

Do big power gtr's (450kw+) have these fitted and not blow t/cases? Or do they just get locking couplings...?

Before i installed the controller my torque split gauge hardly ever moved.

But you certainly do notice the handling ability increase... just dont have it on max :D .

Edited by SideOn
  • 1 month later...

Just wanted to add, I installed the Extreme TSC last night, and it's awesome (subjective, awesomeness).

Handles like a RWD, more predictable and definitely more responsive, for all you tail happy customers.

Only annoying thing is that it makes your ABS light up (because it disables your front ABS), and the 4WD light, lights up to.

But ease of installation I would say 8-9/10 if you have basic wiring knowledge. It's not plug and play, but strip and clip.

I think the benefit of the HKS one is that it's purely plug and play.

Picked up the Extreme TSC for $149 on ebay, financial year price. (NEW).

OH btw, if you have a late R33 GTR or R34 GTR, you can't use the 2WD mode. (har har)

I have a theory in regards to the 2WD mode on 33gtr/34gtr/stageas.. not getting any luck in the other thread so I'll post my theory here..

I found mention of a connector under the dash that you disconnect to relieve pressure in the line so you can bleed the system effectively..

In regards to using a TSC on 33/34 gtr/gts4 and Stageas, with a 2WD switch.. could you run another switch on the above mentioned circuit to bleed the preload pressure on the transfer case?

After previous investigations, I believe that the preload is not in the transfer case itself but is the system maintaining a minimum pressure (enough to give the 5% split to the front). If this IS the case, then disabling the ATTESA system AND bleeding the pressure in the line to the transfer case, should give you 100% rear drive??

Is my thinking on the money? or am I way off the mark?

Probably way off the mark because if it was possble, someone would have come up with it already

I have a theory in regards to the 2WD mode on 33gtr/34gtr/stageas.. not getting any luck in the other thread so I'll post my theory here..

That is for bleeding the attesa system and forces the pump to run when it is disconnected, so your idea won't work. What you need is to be able to take the fluid pressure out of the transfer case. It's something that I have thought about doing using solenoids to block the line that the attesa pump uses to pressurize the transfer case , but am yet to look at further as my car is just back on the road now.

In regards to a TSC, Ruzic engineering (mountain runner on here) one wins hands down on what is does, compared to the simple ones.

TSC's are no good for the R33 and onwards based attesa ecus for trying to make a GTR real wheel drive. It will still damage the transfer case.

That is for bleeding the attesa system and forces the pump to run when it is disconnected, so your idea won't work. What you need is to be able to take the fluid pressure out of the transfer case. It's something that I have thought about doing using solenoids to block the line that the attesa pump uses to pressurize the transfer case , but am yet to look at further as my car is just back on the road now.

In regards to a TSC, Ruzic engineering (mountain runner on here) one wins hands down on what is does, compared to the simple ones.

TSC's are no good for the R33 and onwards based attesa ecus for trying to make a GTR real wheel drive. It will still damage the transfer case.

That's what I'm trying to find a work around to.

Has anyone got a hydraulic circuit diagram for the ATTESA system? mechanically I would imagine they're all pretty similar, the logic in the control unit being the differing factor.

Cheers for the reply!

Edited by bubba
That's what I'm trying to find a work around to.

Has anyone got a hydraulic circuit diagram for the ATTESA system? mechanically I would imagine they're all pretty similar, the logic in the control unit being the differing factor.

Cheers for the reply!

Have a look under the car. At the back of the transfer case is a hydraulic line. Chase this back to the pump on the right hand side of the car. This would need to be modified so that you could trick the pump into thinking that the transfer case is pressurized, but has been diverted away. As I said. I am looking into something similar with my car (33GTR) once I have had some fun with driving it again.

Hmm cool, keep me posted :P

If we could figure out what signal the pressure switch gives the CU at the maximum possible end of its' scale, then we could trick the CU into thinking that the transfer case is over-pressurised, hopefully causing it to bleed pressure.. just thinking out loud here..

I've got some heaving reading of manuals to do before bed each night :) Still searching for one with a comprehensive ATTESA section though :)

Edited by bubba
I don't understand why we can't just cut the power to the hydraulic pump. that's where the preload comes from

Because there's an accumulator and a solenoid maintaining pressure in the line? I think the key would be to cut power to the pump AND de-energise the solenoid so as to relieve the residual pressure in the transfer case..

That or fool the CU into thinking the case is over pressurising and thus bleed the pressure off..

Got nothing to do at work today so I'm reading reading reading :D

Going to give the "disconnect plug + pump brake pedal 5 times in 10 seconds" thing a bash on the way home.

The disconnect plug + pump brake pedal works! :D now I need to put the old LSD out of the skyline in the wagon lol :/

I'll try get the car up on the hoist on the weekend and see if it removes all of the preload straight away.. definitely felt like there was none!

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 years later...

Just wanted to add, I installed the Extreme TSC last night, and it's awesome (subjective, awesomeness).

Handles like a RWD, more predictable and definitely more responsive, for all you tail happy customers.

Only annoying thing is that it makes your ABS light up (because it disables your front ABS), and the 4WD light, lights up to.

But ease of installation I would say 8-9/10 if you have basic wiring knowledge. It's not plug and play, but strip and clip.

I think the benefit of the HKS one is that it's purely plug and play.

Picked up the Extreme TSC for $149 on ebay, financial year price. (NEW).

OH btw, if you have a late R33 GTR or R34 GTR, you can't use the 2WD mode. (har har)

bumping an old post but the 32 I just picked up has an extreme TSC installed. Is it true that it disables the front ABS? I have seen the ABS light come on but it was only when I flicked the switch over to 2wd (without turning the car off, which I now realised needs to be done to change between 4wd/2wd).

  • 1 month later...

with the Extreme TSC (my 32 gtr also came with one which i havnt played with yet)

silly question,

im assuming when toggled to 4wd its not active at all and the usual system does what it does.

when ON, can someone confirm exactly what the gain is doing.

on the box, 0 = (standard) 10=(max front torque)

which it clearly not. 0 just = skiddies which is not standard

does 10 = standard as in as much 4wd a standard = grip

and 5 meaning half way so my gauge would only read %25 front torque? or does 10 give me more FWD torque than usual.

Full Race ETS pro

The Full Race web sight is so wordy. I'm still running the Vspec diff which doesn't look like it helps.

I know when my old computer was giving off a dirty TPS signal the 4wd would drop out. Surely I can replicate that. People talk about transfer case damage, I can't see that happening based on my limited understanding of the system. Anyone that can convince me....

The Full Race web sight is so wordy. I'm still running the Vspec diff which doesn't look like it helps.

I know when my old computer was giving off a dirty TPS signal the 4wd would drop out. Surely I can replicate that. People talk about transfer case damage, I can't see that happening based on my limited understanding of the system. Anyone that can convince me....

Yeah there are different ways to go about it. The Full Race ETS computer does it all and can stop the system from priming or open the valve and deprime on the fly and vice versa. Which is neat, no need to stop and reset. Basically gives u complete control. However if you still have the A-LSD, when you cut power to the attessa to give you Rwd, you will also be cutting power to the diff, give u a single pegger.

I wouldn't worry about transfer damage. Myself and plenty of others have been running systems like this for years with no adverse affects. Even the Nissan manual explains how to put R33/34 into Rwd for dyno etc

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