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So Many Torque Split Controller...!

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32GTRB Proficient

32GTRB

Posted
Posted

with the Extreme TSC (my 32 gtr also came with one which i havnt played with yet)

silly question,

im assuming when toggled to 4wd its not active at all and the usual system does what it does.

when ON, can someone confirm exactly what the gain is doing.

on the box, 0 = (standard) 10=(max front torque)

which it clearly not. 0 just = skiddies which is not standard

does 10 = standard as in as much 4wd a standard = grip

and 5 meaning half way so my gauge would only read %25 front torque? or does 10 give me more FWD torque than usual.

0 shouldn't equal rwd skids if its fitted correctly. I have an extremeTSC fitted to my 32 and my understanding is on 0 the attessa functions as normal. As you dial up the gain, it amplifies the signal to the attessa computer which results in more power being sent to the front wheels.

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tricstar
tricstar

It's been ages since I've done it so someone else can confirm. But it something like this: Unplug the attessa plug above your right leg ( sitting in drivers set ) the one used for bleeding attessa,

Stixbnr32 Rising Star

Stixbnr32

Posted
Posted

I understand its only in the R32 manual to put it into rearwheel drive and that is when its rolling just turn the key on and off (like a crash start) and it goes into RWD. I did this 2 days ago in my 32 to drop some lines. Great fun with 370kw....

RB 30 Enthusiast

RB 30

Posted
Posted

Yeah there are different ways to go about it. The Full Race ETS computer does it all and can stop the system from priming or open the valve and deprime on the fly and vice versa. Which is neat, no need to stop and reset. Basically gives u complete control. However if you still have the A-LSD, when you cut power to the attessa to give you Rwd, you will also be cutting power to the diff, give u a single pegger.

I wouldn't worry about transfer damage. Myself and plenty of others have been running systems like this for years with no adverse affects. Even the Nissan manual explains how to put R33/34 into Rwd for dyno etc

Single pegger doesn't sound good.

What does the Nissan manual say in regards to getting it into Rwd?

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

It's been ages since I've done it so someone else can confirm. But it something like this:

Unplug the attessa plug above your right leg ( sitting in drivers set ) the one used for bleeding attessa,

Turn ignition on and within 10 seconds push the brake pedal at least 5 times,

Awd light should flash continuously and you are Rwd. Attessa valve should open and not prime system.

Like I said it been awhile so hopefully someone will confirm.

But it will be the same deal if you have A-LSD, will take out the diff also as they both work off the same pump unit.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Gareth Collaborator

Gareth

Posted
Posted

with the Extreme TSC (my 32 gtr also came with one which i havnt played with yet)

silly question,

im assuming when toggled to 4wd its not active at all and the usual system does what it does.

when ON, can someone confirm exactly what the gain is doing.

on the box, 0 = (standard) 10=(max front torque)

which it clearly not. 0 just = skiddies which is not standard

does 10 = standard as in as much 4wd a standard = grip

and 5 meaning half way so my gauge would only read %25 front torque? or does 10 give me more FWD torque than usual.

I also have one of these that i got with the car. Think of the 2wd 4wd switch as like an on off switch when on 2wd the dial will do nothing at all and car will be rwd (mine still rotates front wheels if all 4 wheels are in the air, but torque gauge reads zero and wheels can be stopped by hand)

You can switch from 4wd to 2wd on the fly but not back again (have to turn off ignition to engage 4wd)

With switch on and dial set to 0 which my understanding was this was supposed to be standard (as in no controller fitted) car is fairly tail happy and it allows you to get fairly sideways before front torque pulls you back, as i understood it this sounded pretty consistent with standard r32 behaviour.

I usually leave mine at 0, if I'm pushing it abit and want less rear step out i turn it upto 3 or 4 if it's really wet i might have it on 6. I have never felt the need to go higher than that.

I know other systems (ruzik, hks etc) are much more comprehensive but the extreme tcs works pretty well for me, makes a massive difference especially in the wet.

  • 4 weeks later...
GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

Anyone have anymore experience with the HKS ETC?

I'm currently running the extreme TCS (came with the car) but a good friend of mine is giving me his HKS ETC.

I would assume from what I've heard the HKS gear is better??

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
DirtyTreeGTR Newbie

DirtyTreeGTR

Posted
Posted

Anyone have anymore experience with the HKS ETC?

I'm currently running the extreme TCS (came with the car) but a good friend of mine is giving me his HKS ETC.

I would assume from what I've heard the HKS gear is better??

Joey,

I have the HKS ETC and EDA in my car (my car used to belong to JMW on pg 1 of this post.)

I haven't used any other TSC, so I can't provide a comparison.

But I can confirm it gives full control of front torque in quite fine adjustments, with manual and auto modes as described in the gtroc link in JMW's post.

My understanding is that front torque can be locked at a desired level (or lack of) for all road speeds, automatically controlled by the ETC and EDA with a specified ceiling torque split value, or left as the standard attesa system would adjust.

Cheers,

Adam

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

Hi Adam

Thanks for the reply mate.

From what your saying the big advantage of the hks unit is that the front can be locked at a desired torque for any road speed. I'm guessing this makes a big difference for launching/drag racing.

Did you have problems with wear on the transfer case?

Cheers

DirtyTreeGTR Newbie

DirtyTreeGTR

Posted
Posted

Yeah that's right. Full override to a constant setting for any road speed, a drag race mode that uses the EDA to adjust front torque with speed, or normal mode that leaves the attessa system alone (i think).

The off setting seems to do the job most of the time. Hard to tell if that is any different to normal atessa having not driven a 33 gtr with the same power but normal attesa controller.

From what i understand, when on the unit overrides the stock settings with its own control system, more then amplifying/bending the sensor signals like some of the other devices mentioned seem to do.

To be honest I don't actually use it very much as I haven't run the car down the strip and i don't see any benefit to locking the torque split full time for most of my street/hills driving. IMO using the locked or EDA settings would make a big difference to launching (I think the EDA mode is more aggressive in increasing torque split to the front wheels), but i think if it was used often it would probably shorten the life of the drivetrain.

  • 2 weeks later...

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