Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

My bro just got his new line and we were intrested to see what the turbo looked like to compare to other bros turbo.

and we noticed that the fins look different and are bent and chiped ?

is this a problem ? do we need a new turbo ?

their doesnt seem to to be and problem when driving, all though it sounds different when it spools up you can hardely hear it, it doesnt make the whistling sounds like the pod but its a different sounds ?

Thanks,

by the way its on a 95' gtst

(i'll post pics later tonight)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31865-damaged-turbo-wheel-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Well if you go two turbos off the same series motor.

then you can bet your dollar it's a bit damaged.

chipped is not all that good.

Fins can have a 'bent' look. it might just be the wheel.

I dunno what the differences are between the two though... series I vs II.

but i think there was something a tad different.

either way for a new one you only looking at $400

hi

I think I might be having a problem with my turbo too...

It looks ok the last time I checked it..

but at higher speeds.. about 200km/h + there's a really loud shhhhhhhhhhh sound... quite unnatural...

not sure whether something's wrong with the turbo or the blow off valve...

I'm running on standard turbos and turbosmart BOV..

anyone experienced this before?

thanks

That turbo has ingested something, but if it still goes, then keep using it, unless you really want to upgrade. These turbos are generally, not very servicable or rebiuldable. But they are quite tuff. It could keep working fine for years to come. Look at it this way, you only found the damage, coz you looked....you didnt hear any strange noises or see oil or anything.

You can if you want, buy a new comp wheel and get it fitted and balanced, but Personally I woudlnt bother, the time and money isnt worth the problem if the wheel fails. I doubt you would notice the drop in power at all.

I have been playing (that should read, trying to fix:P) a couple of rb25det turbos, and have found the following info....

If you break the seal plate, you can't get a new one (oh no!) If you own a lathe, you can make a new one (doing that now actually)

The turbine is not able to be serperated from the shaft, and is balanced as a single unit

The comp wheel is balance as a single unit, and therefore, you can generally swap wheels with not too much hassle (if you dont balance them, you will get a shorter turbo life, but generally, you will get away with it)

IF you pull apart totally the bearings, (they are not captive bearings) the balls will fall out and roll across the floor, into the drain, cracks in the concrete etc etc, bye bye turbo....

If you can feel shaft play sideways or end ways, the bearings are worn, but if your lucky, you can still have some more room to tap in the centre peice of the comp wheel side bearing (under that damn seal plate im afraid, hard to take them out without breaking them) and get rid of that play, and get another 100 000 kays out of a unit.

Worn bearings and side play and end play in the shaft leads to misalignment of the seals, which of course leads to oil leaks, smoke, etc....

by the way, I picked up a second hand turbo for $200 on the weekend and fitted it to my twin turbo rb25dett VL and it fixed my problem.

So as you can see, spending money at a turbo shop rebiulding a stock rb25det turbo is not a financially rewarding thing to do. Its better to just source a second hand one.

I had two good turbos, untill one started leaking oil into the air intake. Upon trying to fix that turbo, i broke the seal plate. Bought a buggered turbo for $70 and broke the seal plate in that trying to get it out too! :P (DOH)

Bought another good turbo for $200 and fitted it and no worries.

Now im making two new seal plates, using two new o rings, and setting up the bearings in those two turbos again, to see if i can get those turbos operational again. If not, ill turf them:P

black smoke is fuel not oil.

why should it boost higher than standard boost? you got a bleed valve hooked up?

If you have and its refusing to boost very high, it could be any number of alot of other things. I've never seen a turbo that is in such a state that it wont boost higher than standard boost, unless its really stuffed (turbine hitting houseing, seized bearings, etc)

They seem to either work fine, or dont.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...