Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i started to notice recently when i drive flat out and at high revs the car stuttered/hesitated a little i thought it was the sparks so i change the shitty ones that were in there to nice new NGK iridiums :/ it didnt fix it per say but the problems changed now it feels like im hitting the rev limiter at 4-4.5K for a moment then goes fine again, but i havent been able to get on the freeway to really give it a go yet. Im thinking it might be the packs but i wanted to get some input before i blow a wad on splitfires, also could it be the fuel pump? Maybe ill change the fuel filter and see how that goes first

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318677-stutteringhesitant-at-high-revs/
Share on other sites

coilpacks.

easy way to check is take out all coilpacks and give them a good clean. look carefully for hairline crack. usually looks like white powdery cracks. if you see then that means your coilpacks are gone. if you can do a DIY repair on them with some clean silicone sealant.

i did that to my R34 and it handled 240rwkw daily for over a year and still going strong.

coilpacks.

easy way to check is take out all coilpacks and give them a good clean. look carefully for hairline crack. usually looks like white powdery cracks. if you see then that means your coilpacks are gone. if you can do a DIY repair on them with some clean silicone sealant.

i did that to my R34 and it handled 240rwkw daily for over a year and still going strong.

Hmmm that might make sense, I noticed on the 4th sparky that it was the only one covered in a small amount of white powder, I was wondering what it was but I was in a bit of a rush to get them back in so I didn't take much notice. Do you think that's the problem?....splitfires time?

well it could be that or anything really. thats just the first and easiest thing to check. and if faulty cheapest to fix. try the DIY method out first or borrow somones coil packs. then if that fixes the problem you can make you mind if you should get splitfires or not.

well it could be that or anything really. thats just the first and easiest thing to check. and if faulty cheapest to fix. try the DIY method out first or borrow somones coil packs. then if that fixes the problem you can make you mind if you should get splitfires or not.

Just did the whole tape DYI fix, not sure, it seems like it reduced the symptom but I'm also thinking it could be placebo effect. I didn't see any cracks or anything on my packs though....

take it off and clean it. Get the MAF sensor cleaner from Bursons etc. it works a treat!

When you say you did the Tape DIY fix, wht did you tape? If it was the coils themselves then maybe do the whole loom as well, I did the loom on mine and it fixed all stuttering issues I had, after cleaning the MAF's and doing the solder joints on them too. Oh and make sure your spark plugs are gapped down to .8mm

take it off and clean it. Get the MAF sensor cleaner from Bursons etc. it works a treat!

When you say you did the Tape DIY fix, wht did you tape? If it was the coils themselves then maybe do the whole loom as well, I did the loom on mine and it fixed all stuttering issues I had, after cleaning the MAF's and doing the solder joints on them too. Oh and make sure your spark plugs are gapped down to .8mm

mmm might have to have a look into that, I only taped up the actual packs and not the rubber part if thats what you mean. I was thinking about the gap. I thought it was 1.1 for stock boost?

nooo not the packs themselves, you don't need to tape them up. Pull the loom off (the wires with all the plugs) and check it for any splits, (mine had several and could see bare wire on a couple) then tape the whole thing up with some decent electrical tape (nitto FTW) then you should be right, if that's your problem

nooo not the packs themselves, you don't need to tape them up. Pull the loom off (the wires with all the plugs) and check it for any splits, (mine had several and could see bare wire on a couple) then tape the whole thing up with some decent electrical tape (nitto FTW) then you should be right, if that's your problem

I just followed this guide

yes, but dit you have any cracks in the epoxy or not? If no then you wasted your time. Try doing the loom as well, you'll probably find it has a split somewhere, otherwise I rekon it's dry solder joints in the MAF Sensor. Fix it by resoldering the joints Tutorial Here

As far as I know James is still running the standard boost solenoid so boost cut is out. I still place my bet on coilpacks.

Kirs is right standard boost :(, gonna order new splitfires I think

Have you checked your Loom and done the MAF joint with fresh solder yet? That's a LOT cheaper than new Splitfires. If it's not your coils then when you get your new ones you will have the same problem.

The above 2 fixes will take bugger all time to do and will cost you all of $5 for tape and solder a little more if you need to buy a soldering iron too but still a lot less than the Splitfires will sting you :)

I had this problem after a quick squirt on the track.

Checked everything, sparks, coils, intercooler piping etc.

Turned out to be the Vac hose on the Fuel Pressure Regulator, felt kinda stupid once I noticed the little hose dangling.

Chances are yours isn't this, but yeah.

Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...