Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, it appears bridgestone have decided to take a very popular tyre off the production line.

This is being replaced by RE55, which I have been told is very soft, and wont last long (a few thousand kms).

Does anyone know of a comparable tyre to the RE540? Similar grip, wear, price?

Cheers

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31907-no-more-re540s-what-next/
Share on other sites

well i think these r expensive but the looked to have worn well drifting 2 laps around Tsukuba in a s14

Advan Neova AD07's im talking about

but i think the price is a bit too scarey for most

:) :)

If they are good for drift, I dont think they will be doing me any favours

well they seemed to hold onto the road pretty well while still drifting, so im guessing there is some good rubber there

they also tested the advan neova (std one) which looked like a semi slick tyre

not sure how that one went

I've run the re55s, they are spectacular, but like you said....too soft.

I did hear a rumour that the initial batch were softer than the factory wanted and that future tyres will be a different compound. I'm sure Gordon Levin in Emu Plains could confirm, they are the NSW distributor.

As for options, the Dunlop D03js are also out, I haven't tried them yet and they are more expensive....but the D01js were v similar to the old re540s.

Id be interested to hear from anyone who has used the D03js and how they compare?

Hi guys, we use Yokohama A032R's for circuit races (Improved Production and Combined Touring control tyre). They were about 1/2 second slower around Eastern Creek, but lasted longer, that the 540 in the dry. They were heaps faster in the wet though. They seem to be a popular tyre in Targa Tas as well, almost all of the cars I have seen use them.

Gordy supplies them as well.

Sydneykid, what do you know about the Pirelli's they use in the v8brutes series?

Adrian

I know that they suck lol.

They're not real r tyres (dunlop I think, not pirellis)....my car on formula rs is as quick as a brute around wakefield park. Pretty poor really.

I know the Dunlop D01Js were very similarly priced to the RE540s, and very similar in performance...

Dundan, have you got any more info on those D03Js? Google returned nothing...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...