Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But I was wondering which would be better for a stockish type of engine

I know what sort of twin setup I would go for was thinking like twin Disco's as I hear the responce on these are great and they will support good top end.

But if I was to go a single which would give me sorta the same result.

I am happy with the stock twins but I would like to invest in a good turbo setup now which means I won't need to worry later on if I choose to go all out on the engine.....

I'm going to race the car and I would like to get as much responce out of it but still have the high end power.

Just wondering

thanks

CHris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319532-single-vs-twin-setup/
Share on other sites

the single turbo counterpart to the power the 2860-9 turbos will give is the 3076R. however if you go that route you have to buy all new manifold, dump/front pipe/intake pipe, intercooler piping etc. cost wise you are better off getting a set of twins.

twin disco's is a no go. there are bolt on replacements.

as everyone is suggesting, get a pair of -9s and get them installed. they are a good upgrade over stock and will make an easy 300kw.

Buy the turbos now that will suit you in the future.

There's no point buying something that suits the motor now if you're going to change the motor later IMO

Also, make sure someone who knows what they're doing does the work for you. I can think of a few Sydney GTR's that have -7's and one with GTSS's that just don't seem "right". But then i can think of a few Melbourne GTR's that have the same turbos and they go like they're made by NASA.

I wish someone would make something bigger than a GTRS in lowmount form :wub:

Its probably just my personal opinion, but if you're going to build a GTR, make it a fast one! I cant understand why people do the whole built motor thing and a catalogue of parts thrown at their car to finish with 300awkw for example. A stock one will do that! Spend the money on tires, brake discs and pads then go track it until you're sick of it, that will work out much better for your wallet

EDIT: Unless of course you kill the motor, then you're no worse off than when you started but you've had fun along the way

Buy the turbos now that will suit you in the future.

There's no point buying something that suits the motor now if you're going to change the motor later IMO

Its probably just my personal opinion, but if you're going to build a GTR, make it a fast one! I cant understand why people do the whole built motor thing and a catalogue of parts thrown at their car to finish with 300awkw for example. A stock one will do that! Spend the money on tires, brake discs and pads then go track it until you're sick of it, that will work out much better for your wallet

See I'm the other side of the coin - IMO buy the turbos to suit the application now, and then just change them later.

You can just sell them off 2nd hand anyway, or keep them incase you don't like the feel of the larger ones. You'll cost yourself what, maybe 1k... in the overall scheme of things that ain't particularly much.

Nothing wrong with putting a built motor in for 300rwkw either. R32 motors especially are long in the legs and R33's are getting there now as well.

My motor could hold 400rwkw, but I only ever intend to make around 330-340rwkw out of it. I did buy it blown, so i did have to rebuild :wub:

More for reliabilty's sake as opposed to anything else was the reasoning hence i didn't go with a running stock motor as i CBF'd pulling a stocker motor out later when it died - just build, insert, happy times.

See I'm the other side of the coin - IMO buy the turbos to suit the application now, and then just change them later.

You can just sell them off 2nd hand anyway, or keep them incase you don't like the feel of the larger ones. You'll cost yourself what, maybe 1k... in the overall scheme of things that ain't particularly much.

Nothing wrong with putting a built motor in for 300rwkw either. R32 motors especially are long in the legs and R33's are getting there now as well.

My motor could hold 400rwkw, but I only ever intend to make around 330-340rwkw out of it. I did buy it blown, so i did have to rebuild :wub:

More for reliabilty's sake as opposed to anything else was the reasoning hence i didn't go with a running stock motor as i CBF'd pulling a stocker motor out later when it died - just build, insert, happy times.

Well, it was just personal opinion then :wub:

You make some good points aswel, i definatly agree buying a blown motor and building it up is better than rebuilding whats in the car currently.

It means the owner can take their time, get the parts they want, and the car isnt stuck in a workshop covered with dust

2860-9's for a stock 26 would be the way to go.

-5's if you defiantly want to build the motor (soon)

I wouldn't mess about trying single turbo setups unless you go for a twin scroll manifold etc.

hey, sorry im just learning about turbos, but would you go with the -9s to start with cos the A/R ratio is higher, giving more power? but the -5's A/R is lower in peak power so not-advised unless other most are coming too to raise the power?

or have i got this all wrong?

I wish someone would make something bigger than a GTRS in lowmount form :P

The trust T618Z 10cm kit seems to squeeze a little more power than the GTRS's... There is also rumors of a T620Z kit on it's way. Should be intersting.

You'd be mad to choose a top mount set up for anything less than 400awkw.

J.

The trust T618Z 10cm kit seems to squeeze a little more power than the GTRS's... There is also rumors of a T620Z kit on it's way. Should be intersting.

You'd be mad to choose a top mount set up for anything less than 400awkw.

J.

Didn't know anything about a new trust turbo coming out, thanks for that!

I wouldn't be betting on it though as the jap companies are all so focussed on r35's now

still, I'd love to see it happen!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...