Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive got the same problem in my 33 gts4. The AWD Light Is On And when the AWD comes in the SLIP light dose not flash on. It is still working tho.

Ive had is checked out by two different mechanics and an auto electrician and they cant find the problem, I had it hooked up to a Nissan diag test and it came up with an ABS problem, Got a new unit and Still the same issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319614-r32-gts-4/#findComment-5219412
Share on other sites

Have you got the same size tyres and rims front and rear? Having different rolling circumfrances will cause this problem as the computer reads the front wheel travelling faster than the rears or vice versa

Edited by R32GTS4NZ
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319614-r32-gts-4/#findComment-5227410
Share on other sites

Have you got the same size tyres and rims front and rear? Having different rolling circumfrances will cause this problem as the computer reads the front wheel travelling faster than the rears or vice versa

This... different wheel circumfrence is bad enough for a regular diff, and for AWD... my parents dropped about $5k worth on diff repair/replacement in their Volvo XC70 before it was discovered that a tyre shop (that shall remain nameless) put the wrong diameter tyre on... fairly subtle difference too apparently. Aforementioned tyre shop ended up reimbursing them for diff repair/replacement, towing fees etc.

So I wouldn't at all surprised if it would also cause ATTESA to chuck a spaz.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...amp;pid=4643006 - suggests that a 2% difference in rolling diameter is acceptable, maybe check your tyre/rim sizes?

If it's not that, I have NFI coz I don't really know much about ATTESA :P (jack in fact)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319614-r32-gts-4/#findComment-5231608
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

Just want to know how to check if your 4wd is working? My 4wd light is on and the fuse is in aswell. What could be the problem if my 4wd isnt kicking in.

Thanks

If the 4wd light is on, there is a fault. So obviously it isn't going to work.

Check the fault code.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319614-r32-gts-4/#findComment-5232286
Share on other sites

The light isn't on to tell you it is working... there is a fault. Wether you in particular have some weird-o issue that no matter the amount of auto tech's can't find is not the question, in the op's case that is what he needs to do first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319614-r32-gts-4/#findComment-5232436
Share on other sites

if you want to see if its working, drop the clutch on some grass and see if the front tyres spun as well. either the grass will be flat, beaten and ripped a bit, or it'll be dug up. or do the same on some dirt or something. but if the car flys off into the distance instead of just sitting there burning out its probably working...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319614-r32-gts-4/#findComment-5232900
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
×
×
  • Create New...