Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its meant to be plumbed after the TB, which is pretty small from memory on a GTR.

I'm fairly sure you will need a standalone unit with a vac port to run a hose to, but I am open for correction as Ive never done one personally.

Not sure on a GTR, but on my R33 GTST, the MAP Sensor is located at the top right of the engine bay, right next to the ABS unit, and a T piece on a hose that comes from the plenum to the BOV!? (Cant rember where exactly it goes, but heads in that direction). I shall take a photo when i can and highlight it for you.

do you want the quick nasty way or the right way?

Quick-nasty: thread the map sensor into the top joining manifold where the VCT valve is normally.

Right way: tap two threads into the center throttle plate after each throttle blade, then T them together into your map sensor.

this is unfortunately the correct way to do it. requires removal of intake manifold to tap vacuum ports behind throttle plates.

you can plumb into the balance tube and it will work but reading is not as accurate.

do you want the quick nasty way or the right way?

Quick-nasty: thread the map sensor into the top joining manifold where the VCT valve is normally.

Right way: tap two threads into the center throttle plate after each throttle blade, then T them together into your map sensor.

this is unfortunately the correct way to do it. requires removal of intake manifold to tap vacuum ports behind throttle plates.

you can plumb into the balance tube and it will work but reading is not as accurate.

Balance tube is fine as you will most likely throttle pressure tune it anyway. You will get the same signalfrom the balance pipe as you would drilling and tapping into the manifold.

  • Like 1

Mine is teed off the line to the fuel pressure regulator. From what I can tell, this is also at the same pressure as the rear take-off for the factory boost gauge. I'm tempted to tee it off there so it is more stealth.

I am not using the PCV valve, can i use this port on the balance tube? I also need to plumb in the clutch and brake boosters I think they need to be after throttles too. and was saving the big thread for them. If this is not the case i can run them off the plenum easy enough and run the haltech from that port

I am not running AAC valve so have lost a lot of connections. I have no intention of reinstalling it.

ok..little bit off topic but as its my topic i will give it a shot

Here is a pic of the standard setup, I was wondering if anyone is aware of the workings of the aac valve.

My idea is to run the clutch and brake booster from a tee'd line on the two red hoses, assuming that they are straight from the balance bar, meaning the yellow part is just a vacum reservoir so to speak in standard form and not valved off in any way.

fyi pic is not my car, just one i found. I dont actually have an aac valve to use, and don't really want one as it is a track only car i don't care if it idles high

post-26632-1273460847_thumb.jpg

  • 6 months later...
  • 3 years later...

I know this is an old thread but I want to see if there are better ways to connect other than the Apexi way or the PVC way...

how about on the balance tube 1 tap at each end and T them together? I want to keep the stock PVC Valve...

Edited by etang789

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
×
×
  • Create New...