Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, here goes :wub:

Car is an R32 GTS-T.

every time i turn my ignition to on, my HICAS light is off. i drive and after about 10 minutes every drive the light comes on solid. before the light comes on, as i approach 80 K's i feel my hicas go full lock one way (i know full lock for hicas is a degree or 2) my steering wheel sort of naturally turns right about 5 degrees to keep me going straight. it is about 75 k's an hour this happens.

as soon as the hicas light comes on, it stops happening. in order to turn my hicas light off i turn my ignition off and then turn it back on. i get another 10 minutes or so before the light comes on again...

my theory, the previous owner installed an after market steering wheel and for some reason went back to the original wheel for the sale. i have heard there is a HICAS steering angle sensor somewhere on the steering column. if anyone could tell me where please do) i assume the sensor is sensing my steering wheel turning (while it's actually straight) because it was replaced wrong.

i then guess, HICAS is designed to realise that the driver is probably not doing circles in the same direction for 10 minutes and the light comes on and it disables telling you it thinks there's a problem.

could this have anything to do with a leak in the rear cradle somewhere also? because it got very very low on power steering fluid last week (hadn't checked power steering fluid in over 6 months lol) so i topped it up.

please help me out! cheers

sorry it's so long. tried to give as much info as possible.

please bump this because i really want my HICAS to operate properly so i need this read by many!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319950-hicas-problem/
Share on other sites

I've had similar problems in my R34, and whilst the R32 system is hydraulic, I'd assume it's reasonably similar.

What you'll probably need to do is set the front steering rack straight (so that the steering wheel angle sensor is straight), then put the steering wheel on straight, then reset the system (disconnect battery). That should make it re-learn where HICAS is.

If the mechanic is unsure about setting the front steering rack straight to the steering wheel, you might be best to go see Nissan and get the car put on CONSULT. They can read the steering angle sensor from HICAS and advise/adjust appropriately.

Alternatively, you can do as the previous poster said - and just replace with a lock-bar - but that may have legal / engineering implications.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319950-hicas-problem/#findComment-5225596
Share on other sites

mine has hicas probs aswell i have replace my ecu and put new fluid in to aid the problem but still happens i thinks its my steering angle sensor because it start happening just after a aftremarket wheel was fitted let me no how you go as i would be interested no if that has caused my issues

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319950-hicas-problem/#findComment-5227270
Share on other sites

I had this problem with my r32 gts4. Always did it after so long driving and at over 80km/h. could be rather unerving. I just removed the hicas solenoids and installed a lock bar, looped the fluid through the power steering cooler. Much better than having it fixed. Rear end much more stable

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319950-hicas-problem/#findComment-5227417
Share on other sites

Take it to ur nissan dealer they will re-align the hicas this same problem has happend to both R32s ive had....

i bought it private? what dealer will deal with imports? i've rang and asked before and they said "is it an import?" and so they said we can't help... what difference does it make! i'll pay accordingly!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319950-hicas-problem/#findComment-5237130
Share on other sites

Had exact same problem with my 180, it was the psteer fluid. ran too low and then it started having issues. I ended up locking the hicas and throwing away the solenoid and associated crap. as far as I know it wasnt anything to do with any steering sensor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319950-hicas-problem/#findComment-5237655
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...