Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Upgraded ID injectors/fuel rail will see upwards of the 550rwkw it's already produced as well, still retaining the standard head...

We are looking forward to what we can get out of it before the new head goes on that's for sure!!

Traction will definitely be an issue for this car but it will be one hell of a lot of fun to drive!! :)

We (Mercury Motorsport) also have almost completed a JUN 2.7 stroker in an RB26 with an HKS T51 SPL turbo (also in a 33 GTST). Will be interesting to compare the two! :D

  • 4 months later...

What rear housing is on the turbo?

Seem turbo is lazy, 35psi is at 7250 rpm looking at the graph. Check just incase your wastegates are leaking, or a boost leak?

if all ok, id be looking for a small rear housing.

hay mate, its how its tuned, he has given me some drivability. there arent any boost leaks and def not going a smaller rear housing. if anything id go a bigger turbo like the GTX45r, it would be perfect! with the 42r i can short change at 6000rpm and it still hard on boost on the gear change so its very generous on its power band. first thing is first and thats to get rid of the borrowed standard head and put my build one back on. maybe look at a 900hp plus with it all on. which is just pointless anyway.

ta for having a think about it though.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

took it for a run before its got the bigger wheels and wider tires and before it gets this head work put in

did a 11.98 @ 138mph

had it on maybe 40% throttle in 1st and 2nd, any more and it spun and axle hopped then flat foot in 3rd and 4th. but its on the limiter over the line in 4th.

did this on 17 inch wheels so the new 19s will have me still changing hard over the line for more mph and the tires a a 3 year old federal 275, there shit. new tires will we be anywhere from a 305 to a 335 just havent brought them yet so cant tell ya.

post-19157-0-97680300-1335961485_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

took it for a run before its got the bigger wheels and wider tires and before it gets this head work put in

did a 11.98 @ 138mph

had it on maybe 40% throttle in 1st and 2nd, any more and it spun and axle hopped then flat foot in 3rd and 4th. but its on the limiter over the line in 4th.

did this on 17 inch wheels so the new 19s will have me still changing hard over the line for more mph and the tires a a 3 year old federal 275, there shit. new tires will we be anywhere from a 305 to a 335 just havent brought them yet so cant tell ya.

That is serious rubber.

PM sent.

  • 7 months later...

so how much power rwkw rear will drive can be made wit stock 26 cams - 3l block cam gears and full ported head wit bigger valves , 42r 1.01rear 1000hp

i have pair of timei 260/270 10.25mm lift but if stocks can make over 400rwkw ill keep them in, daily driver vl

gerry

Edited by chairman
  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...