Jump to content
SAU Community

Faulty Passenger Window

FlyingEL
 Share

Recommended Posts

FlyingEL Rising Star

FlyingEL

Posted
Posted

Hi, recently I got a problem with my windows. It 1st started when I use the auto UP the close the window but after it fully closed, it will fall back down about 30%. I thought it's some kind of sensor that prevent the window crushing your fingers. And it will close when I manually close it. But recently, it got worse. It will sometime open 30% when my passenger closes the door. Anyone experience this? Do I need to change the motor or just some setting? Can Chris help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320250-faulty-passenger-window/
Share on other sites
rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
Posted

Ok: here's another: my drivers window works fine EXCEPT the auto drop function (when you open/close the door) has stopped working at all on the drivers door. It doesn't really bother me that much, other than the fact that I know there's something not working on my car, but what is the potential for damaging seals etc, assuming I left it as-is for a while?

ogz007 Rising Star

ogz007

Posted
Posted
Ok: here's another: my drivers window works fine EXCEPT the auto drop function (when you open/close the door) has stopped working at all on the drivers door. It doesn't really bother me that much, other than the fact that I know there's something not working on my car, but what is the potential for damaging seals etc, assuming I left it as-is for a while?

I don’t think your seal will be damaged at all by the window not going down or up automatically.

Im the same with the driver side, its not working. And im in a process of working out the problem. (damn sensors)

Does your auto interior lights work still when your door is opened? Or does orange light around the key slot turn on?

If no then join the club! Lol, I will let you know how it goes..i just need to test few things. But when mine is fully up and when I close the door, it knicks the window roofing slightly..so I need to adjust it with a little patience when I close the door so it should be ok as I do not use the car everyday.

Thanks, I'll give it a go this weekend. and see how it goes.

I guess just a little tip/s:

make sure your window is full down so it does not drop when you take the motor off, this way also when you put everything back, you wont have a hardtime aligning the railings. (you will know what I mean.)

If you feel your window doesn’t operate smoothly you may need to clean the railings. So get a WD40 handy clean and apply the grease.

When you get inside the motor (as advised by my friend g33k) make sure you wipe the carbon out (black stuff) of the main cover or where the dipstick /silver bar comes from.

Grab a fine sand paper and clean the carbon that is stuck on the copper bits. Grab a toothpic to clean between the copper.

So yeh good luck.

ogz007 Rising Star

ogz007

Posted
Posted

this will probably help. rs73's shows you how to get the the door handles with glass off.

link below would be for the motor and the heart of the motor itself. Cleaning procedure is there too.

http://g35driver.com/forums/body-interior-...el-removal.html

ogz007 Rising Star

ogz007

Posted
Posted

Trying to fix the door step light as its not working at all for awhile now.. Theni notice my window started playing up… going up and down up and down when its open for about 3 seconds… while this was happening its in sequence with the interior lights going on and off.

I started playing with my sensor as theres frictions I can hear when unscrewing it but I didn’t disconnect anything. So I just left it as it..

So we opened the door tested the copper that holds the bulb and its working fine when I hook it up to the actual battery…the wiring on the door is giving power to so I don’t know why its not working..

When I put everything back.. I noticed that everything stopped reacting.. I checked the fuse.. And there it is, I saw a blown up fuse.. Changed it…the intrior lights works again when I manually turn it on.. But the automatic mode doesn’t work when the door is open. There no signal to window aswell so it doesn’t go down automatically when opened as it normally would. I looked at the key slot light and no lights what so ever.

Went to the sensor and I no longer hear any frictions when unscrewing it or when I click it. So ill probabaly test the sensor when I get the time.

If it’s the BCM can you tell me the best thing to do so I can replace this…?

rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
Posted
Im the same with the driver side, its not working. And im in a process of working out the problem. (damn sensors)

Does your auto interior lights work still when your door is opened? Or does orange light around the key slot turn on?

If no then join the club! Lol, I will let you know how it goes..i just need to test few things. But when mine is fully up and when I close the door, it knicks the window roofing slightly..so I need to adjust it with a little patience when I close the door so it should be ok as I do not use the car everyday.

My map lights work, but my red door lights don't. I have also noticed that the car will re-lock itself automatically, even if I have opened a door in the mean time...

  • 1 month later...
FlyingEL Rising Star

FlyingEL

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I guess just a little tip/s:

make sure your window is full down so it does not drop when you take the motor off, this way also when you put everything back, you wont have a hardtime aligning the railings. (you will know what I mean.)

If you feel your window doesn’t operate smoothly you may need to clean the railings. So get a WD40 handy clean and apply the grease.

When you get inside the motor (as advised by my friend g33k) make sure you wipe the carbon out (black stuff) of the main cover or where the dipstick /silver bar comes from.

Grab a fine sand paper and clean the carbon that is stuck on the copper bits. Grab a toothpic to clean between the copper.

So yeh good luck.

HI I manage to find sometime today to give this a try. I did take out the internal motor to give it a good clean. I used an eraser instead of the sand paper (was taught from the days of playing RC cars), give everything black a good clean. But After I assembled everything back, The same problem still there. When I auto close the window, once the window reaches the top, it will wind down 4". And when i close the door, the window doesn't go up & down. Anything I did wrong?

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted
Ah. Well that would explain it then! The other door lights do work...

Chris is right,

red door 'light' is not a light but a reflector so that when you open your door while stopping on the roadside, oncoming traffic from behind you can see it. safety feature.

re windows auto seal up/down, either the glass bolts were a bit loose ( I found that out when re-assembling), or your door sensor is faulty.

t5iv Grand Master

t5iv

Posted
Posted

My passenger window has s*at itself. You can't use the switch on the passenger side to make it go up/ down, but if you use the main controls on the drivers side, its fine. Would that be the motor as well?

Also, my passenger seat can not move any further forward or recline forward any more. It will move back, but not forward. The seat is pretty far back atm.

Any ideas on how to fix it?

Cheers gents.

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

ok, free shortcut for you as I think I found something on the 2nd page of that thread.

there's a reset button on the windows motor - according to them... to have your power window reset/re-learn do this:

Here are the instructions:

1. With the door open, lift up and hold the window switch until the window is completely closed.

* do not use the auto-up function and do not release the switch until the window is completely closed.

2. Get inside the vehicle and close the door. You need to close the door so the door switch is fully depressed.

3. Press and hold the window regulator motor reset switch. While holding the reset switch, press DOWN and HOLD until the window is all the way down.

* Do not use the auto close function and do not release the switch until the window is completely open.

4. Release the reset switch.

5. Then lift UP and HOLD the window switch until the window is completely closed.

* Do not use the auto close function and do not release the switch until the window is completely closed.

6. Open the door to release the door switch. The window glass should move partially down.

That is it. This came from the official Infiniti window reset procedure. It is PDF and I had no way to paste it, so I just typed it in.

FlyingEL Rising Star

FlyingEL

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ok, free shortcut for you as I think I found something on the 2nd page of that thread.

there's a reset button on the windows motor - according to them... to have your power window reset/re-learn do this:

Haha, I was reading it the same thing. But where is the window regulator reset switch?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...