Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah coilovers first the wheels will naturally camber to a point as you lower the car so id aim for them followed by camber arms.. maybe otehrs will say differntly but that'd be my advice.

leave the tyres for now wont make a difference

did you get 18x9.5 all around?

nah coilovers first the wheels will naturally camber to a point as you lower the car so id aim for them followed by camber arms.. maybe otehrs will say differntly but that'd be my advice.

leave the tyres for now wont make a difference

did you get 18x9.5 all around?

Coilovers are minimum £600 - so may be a couple of months before I have that £ spare :P

yes 9.5 all round, they were on a special deal or I woulda got 8.5's on the front.

Andy

chuck a front shot up hamish if u got one..

med_gallery_36777_3194_134461.jpg

you'll fit easily with 235's

just have to lip the guards....

mine is stock metal, just pupmed to accomodate the camber as i want max traction for the kw's :P

you'll fit easily with 235's

just have to lip the guards....

mine is stock metal, just pupmed to accomodate the camber as i want max traction for the kw's :/

^ hey Hamish, Nice front end too :P , have you fitted camber adjusters?

also how much is that lowered by and using which kit?

thanks!

Andy

ya fitment is straight down the line... maybe i should go less camber.. meh

What do you mean Alex?

and yes I think I will save up for a coilover kit.... damn and I swore I was keepin the R33 standard :s

Andy

Pics attached so you can see what I mean... the last 2 pics show my concerns!

Thanks guys

Andy

The car is too high for one.

The camber is looking like it's set to 0 which is not really going to work unless you have smaller tyres.

You have a couple of options.

1) Roll your guards flat. Fit 235/40R18s and lower the car. Adjust the camber so the wheels clear the guards by millimetres and it will look perfect.

2) Roll your guards flat. Keep the 265/35R18s and lower the car. Dial in more camber until they clear.

^^ OMG that looks amazing. What tyres are you running on the rear?

I'm based in the UK currently, I may be able to get camber adjustment kits locally and fairly inexpensive - Around £140 for the set, but how much camber will take in the top of the wheel by 1 or 2 cm?

I am pricing up some 245/40/18's now, gutted as I have just forked out for the 265's.

Thanks for the help and pics guys, much appreciated!

Andy

Don't bother with 245/40R18s. They're too tall for your car.

Go for the 235/40R18 all round.

Camber will need to probably be around -2.5 to -3 all round.

Understand that the gay is going to look goofy sitting so high, so you'll need to save for springs or coilovers to lower the car.

Unfortunately a lot of people jump into things without fully understanding what's involved. But we'll help you out of your predicament :(

dont be a girly man, 18x9.5's are perfect.

I managed to fit 20x9.5 +20 and 20x10.5 +22 to my girlfriends 33 gtst.

yeh is that the marooon 33? mexican as fk unless im mistaken it for something else..

was reffering to hamish's car with straight down the line fitment.

btm he cant do any of those options at this point becuase he has no coilovers and not worth cambering in at stock hieght will look ridiculous..

these things take time..and money.

I think it looks a bit funny the wheels sticking that far out on a stock looking car.... but i think my wheels are offset around 20 on the rear and there flush with the top of the guard pretty much. (19 x 9.5 with 265's)

Im not at home, away for work so I cant double check what offset mine are, but are u sure u dont have spacers on the car or something and didnt notice? Perhaps your old mags were spaced?

I dont think it will be that but just thought I'd say something just in case you didnt think of that

Mine are definately ET20 offset, I'm actually thinking of selling them to pay for coilovers, then I will buy wheels again in a few months. (8.5's's front and 9.5's rear next time with a different offset)

The rims are further out than the widest point on the wings so I think this may still be a no go?

If I put the camber to -2.5 or 3 wont it rip through tyres ?? and tram line like hell (follow grooves in road etc)?

Thanks guys !

Andy

yeh is that the marooon 33? mexican as fk unless im mistaken it for something else..

was reffering to hamish's car with straight down the line fitment.

btm he cant do any of those options at this point becuase he has no coilovers and not worth cambering in at stock hieght will look ridiculous..

these things take time..and money.

Then he should pull the wheels off and drive around on stockies until he can afford the parts needed to actually fit his wheels.

Mine are definately ET20 offset, I'm actually thinking of selling them to pay for coilovers, then I will buy wheels again in a few months. (8.5's's front and 9.5's rear next time with a different offset)

The rims are further out than the widest point on the wings so I think this may still be a no go?

If I put the camber to -2.5 or 3 wont it rip through tyres ?? and tram line like hell (follow grooves in road etc)?

Thanks guys !

Andy

Don't go any narrower if you buy wheels again in the future. If you go narrower your car will look gay as f*ck.

Sell the wheels and get the supporting mods first. They're far more important.

ahhh i love these threads... mexican FTW!!

IMG_1635.jpg

man up... buy the wheels in your desired size... then make the car fit the wheels.. bash the guards... stretch the tyres... whatever you need to do... (except going crazy camber)

btw... get some coilovers asap... srsly. not expensive for a second hand set.

couldnt agree more....

my rolla's wheels sit out that much (actually probably a lil more) and i mananged to get the stock metal out far enough to "fit" them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...