Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

moo_r32: i noticed this the other day too and i think my exact wording was:

"what the.... god damn, I gotta get that fixed...."

sucks doesn't it?... but yeah, mistsubishi electronics etc.... BIG company....

might just take to mine with a bit of sand paper.... lol

Mitsubishi is a BIG company...;)
Hahahahahahah! Thats EXACTLY the same thing I thought when I read the first post!!!

Mitsubishi Electric make eveything from flourescent lights to trains... just ask evo_lee...

  • 6 months later...

Sorry to dread up an old thread...didn't see myself mentioned...hehehe.

Yeah the Mitsubishi Group is very big in Japan, perhaps one of the biggest and oldest group companies in Japan...(Mitsubishi Electric itself brings in 5% of the Japan GDP). If you know your history, Mitsubishi are among the group of companies consider the most prestigious companies in Japan for their role in rebuilding Japan after the war. The Emperor then after the war call upon these companies each involved in different industries to rebuild Japan. You will notice also these companies have their HQ located around the Royal Palace in Tokyo, said to be allocated by the the Emperor...how prestigious can you get! I was very impressed to hear this when I first visited Tokyo HQ. Are you superstitious???...these companies are said to be the primary elements of Japan or protectors of the Japanese economy/industry...if one should fall (fail) = bad omen.

OK the history lesson is over...

So because of their role in rebuilding Japan, they became very diverse in their range of products and services. Course all these products are made by seperate companies or child companies under the Mitsubishi 3 diamond brand name.

I work at the Mitsubishi Electric Transportation Facility in Osaka, working in their Rolling Stock or Railway department, unfortunately not their automotive division but there are alot of equipment we design for MMC and other makers...also other products.

Rail industry wise we are the largest supplier in Japan with 80% market share - JR East and the Shinkansen are all equiped with Mitsubishi equipment...and globally we supply all around. For you local guys, bet you didn't know Sydney trains were powered by Mitsubishi traction engines, inverters and train operating systems did you :P.

Other big Mitsubishi names you would have heard of are Mitsubishi Corp - one of the largest trading house in the world; MHI-Mitsubishi Heavy Industry who make ships, power plants etc and of course Mitsubishi turbos for Trust; Tokyo-Mitsubishi Bank - one of the largest banks in the world; Nikon cameras; Kirin Brewery who also owns Two Dogs but still labelled Australian :P...oh and also MMC who are are now dubbed the problem child of the family and so they deserve to be grilled by other 3diamond companies for giving the family a bad name. They are also so lucky to be bailed out by other family members.

You can check all the Mitsubishi companies from this website.

http://www.mitsubishi.or.jp/e/contents/contents_2.html

So don't be surprised to find the 3 diamonds around...they are not just known because of MMC, the Mitsubishi Group name is much much bigger then MMC who are only one in the family.

this whole Mitsubishi thing has left me and my mates stumped for ages (couple of wees....hahaha)... have mitsubishi things in my car. Thing is my mate used to have an r33 and his didn't have it... So would this be a stock part that nissan had put in when it came out or would it have been added on some where down the line?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...