Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A lot of people have them, no doubt. It's all in the setup though.

not forgetting when Justin's results and opinions were made... majority of higher powered -5 turboed GT-R's are only coming around in the last couple of years. and even still now, most only get mid to high 300's...

Big dollar and R&D projects always get better results.

not forgetting when Justin's results and opinions were made... majority of higher powered -5 turboed GT-R's are only coming around in the last couple of years. and even still now, most only get mid to high 300's...

Big dollar and R&D projects always get better results.

No doubt. A mate in 05 had a -5, standard engines GTR making 300. That was considered a half decent result. Now it would be considered a joke. Setups, fuel, ECU's, exhaust sizes (a 3 inch IS NOT BIG ENOUGH) and possibly tuning methods have come along way!

I had trust T517z 10cms on my old engine/setup, completely stock engine made 370kw at 24psi, then popped a head gasket lol

Was laggy but when they came on Hang on !!

That setup has been sold, engines been forged and running a 6266 getting tuned on Friday, keen for results !

I had trust T517z 10cms on my old engine/setup, completely stock engine made 370kw at 24psi, then popped a head gasket lol

Was laggy but when they came on Hang on !!

That setup has been sold, engines been forged and running a 6266 getting tuned on Friday, keen for results !

The whole 'lethargic, but when it comes on.... HOLD ON' thing... Isn't that just turbos making the power they should, but being a nugget through the mid range?

Cars, power, times and not least, everyday performance all depend almost entirely on the seven P's. perfect prior planning prevents piss poor performance. I have used 5's on a dead stock 26. Wasn't particularly blown away. Buuuuut, when I started building and improving, they really started to shine. Would I have 5's again? You bet. Would I build a different way? You bet. For today's fuel quality and cost of performance parts for 26's, you'd be mad to not build a tough 26 and run it on Jew brew AND still look like a stock engine bay that can peel your eyelids off when you give it the nuts, because let's face it, the police these days are getting smarter, and the bullshart fines are also getting worse.

I've personally built big power 8's and after looking at graphs and seat of the pants, for a stock as ya nannas undies look with big block torque, can't really go past a 2.8 with a well sorted set of 5's and Jew brew.

he he he...

The garretts are a pretty good choice....

I ran my T517Z's 7 years ago- they were the best option for me at the time. No graph.

They may out perform on a dyno... but it's hard to argue with 138mph in a full weight r32. havn't seen many -5 cars run those sort of numbers on a stock motor in full trim?

I don't like -5's the same as I don't like 'itard- Apple' products....

Wasnt nitrous used when you ran 138mph?

The whole 'lethargic, but when it comes on.... HOLD ON' thing... Isn't that just turbos making the power they should, but being a nugget through the mid range?

Not really... the torque delivery, it's the way torque not the power multiplies and gives you that rush.

Wasnt nitrous used when you ran 138mph?

Yeah, I was shooting a very fatt 50hp (read, probably 25hp gain) shot to get me off the line. As much as anything it provided a consistent intake temp thus more consistent times between day and night. Call it 2mph at best.

Ok cool. No lag + nitrous = crazy

There is still lagg.... but your launching well within the torque curve.

There is no massive push from that sort of nitrous. It's more like driving on a cold day v's a hot day.

Nitrous is one of the most over rated yet least understood power 'adder'.

Funny how the same setup work for some and not for others

I had everything like you minus cams (but with cam gears ) and could only manage 370kw

That's with HPI 3" dumps, custom twin 3" into 3.5" front pipe, custom 3.5" cat back, arc front mount, etc etc !

stock head... drop in 260deg cams.

bone stock 15yo engine

bolt on turbo's, dumps, cooler/pipe work, rb20 afm's, PFC, fuel system on 98.

J.

Wow minimal mods nice work. What was you mph off nitrous?

Edited by Ryan1200

NOS was the number one mod in the fast and furious movie, yet 12 years later and its the least used mod, it's pretty amazing that hardly anyone uses it. I think E85 and billet turbos outperforms it by far interms of reliability and price.

^This 34 made 842rwkw with Nos and 963rwkw without ..lol

I just bought a car yesterday with 10cm units fitted, will be interesting to see how I like them as my last Gtr had -5's. Justin you would know the car, silver, jun engine bits, built in Hobart......

Is that a stroker ? I would imagine these turbos to be perfectly suited to a 2.7/2.7L etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I might just check it out.. A Q among all those skylines.. lol
    • Time will tell, they're doing all the admin stuff at the moment. I've submitted all the required details, photos, etc.   I was under the impression that DC coupling is the best approach, i.e.: Solar Array -> Battery Invertor -> Battery  Where as AC Coupling is simpler, however less efficient, i.e.: Solar Array -> Solar Invertor -> Battery Invertor -> Battery
    • The price is really great for that kind of capacity. I thought similar setups cost way more. How's your efficiency been with the DC-coupling? I've heard sometimes there can be a bit of a performance loss.
    • Long time no random post about shit. So I went down this deep deep rabbit hole of battery storage for the home, ended up locking in a 41.9kWh Fox ESS EQ4800 with 9 units stacked. Battery uses Lithium Iron Phosphate, similar to what you find in those deep cycle boat/caravan batteries. And yes, why did I go with a cheapie brand and not like Synergy? simply because I don't plan to stay at this house for more than another 3~5 years.  The entire install, DC coupling (removal of existing invertor, connecting the current 6.6kW array direct to the battery invertor), new 8kW invertor is $6K all up (after all the rebates etc.). Going with this lot: https://www.aussiesolarbatteries.com.au/ It did seem a bit too good to be true, however seems like the Whirlpool community has vetted it and when it comes to this kind of stuff, they seem to be all over it: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/9pxj8482?p=38   I've requested for the battery to be installed outside, next to my meter board and not inside - rather have it combust and ignite outside lol.    
    • In Vic it would be a defect regardless of whether or not you cut a hole in the sheetmetal for the return pipe. The rules in Vic are shitful, and are generally interpreted as you can "make 2 mods to the intake system". Putting an FFP and an FMI onto it will almost certainly be seen as some huge number of intake mods. You really need to speak to an engineer before doing this stuff in VIC.
×
×
  • Create New...