Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Carbon Canister And Air Con

rad100

By rad100,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

what real gains are to be had removing the carbon canister anyway..1kw maybe

I also remember reading somewhere that in Japan race and drift cars are required to keep them, anyone know if this is correct. Cause those cars are mighty quick so it seems to me removing it is pointless and a waste of fuel..

wlspn Proficient

wlspn

Posted
Posted

How did you go removing the evaporator etc. under the dash? Or you not going that far.

I have removed the A/C from under my dash & its not hard...

Remove glove-box, from memory theres a plate behind there so remove that too. Then next to blower, directly under glovebox, is the A/C core in a plastic case, which is held in by a heap of bolts. Remove that then you can split it in half (held together by tabs) pull the core out, & refit the plastic case. This plastic case acts as part of the ducting for the heater & fan so if you use these, it needs to be refitted or replaced with something similar (have seen 4" domestic A/C tubing used) or you will have nothing.

Few things to note but...

The alloy A/C fittings that poke through your firewall are part of the core so if you remove it you will have two holes in your firewall.

Some grommets from Clark Rubber will fix that.

There will also be two holes in the plastic case where these same fittings poked through that. Once again, grommets or something similar will fix...

& lastly, I would suggest putting some flywire, etc between the two pieces of the plastic case when re-assembling it. Without this you will have a lot of leaves, etc come through the vents that the A/C core used to catch.

Fair bit (but not HEAPS) of crap caught in & around my core when I done this...

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

what real gains are to be had removing the carbon canister anyway..1kw maybe

I also remember reading somewhere that in Japan race and drift cars are required to keep them, anyone know if this is correct. Cause those cars are mighty quick so it seems to me removing it is pointless and a waste of fuel..

I think there would be no performance increase what so ever. I mainy removed it so I could mount a catch can in it's place and remove a bunch of vacuum lines.

I think most people would be removing them due to engine bay tidy up/making more room.

  • 3 years later...
MathewZ Collaborator

MathewZ

Posted
Posted

i hope you didnt just let the air con gas out.

R134a is Lethal to the atmosphere
R12 is also lethal yet no longer in modern cars and usually only seen older vehicles that are yet to be converted to r134a there would be a plate in teh engine bay stating which type fo gas you have. and if serviced by a air conditioning place and replaced with minus 30 thered also be a minus 30 service sticker in there properly. unless was done in a back yard job.
There is a cheaper gas going round which can be let out into the atmosphere though. known to most as (Minus 30)

Just for fi anyone views this thread for the same reasons please take your car to a registered Air conditioning place to get it properly removed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • GTSBoy
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • oHBoy.
      2001 R34DE

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...