Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Take care of michaels car :thumbsup:

good friend of mine

So bro, (op)

What happened to making the decision yesterday?

You have all the information in the world. All of us have elaborated so much in this thread, that you should know by now what you would much rather want.

Have the invoice on my work desk. Will be paying for a set of -9s first thing tomorrow morning

Take care of michaels car :thumbsup:

good friend of mine

Ahh thats the michael u mean. Bout to start swapping his turbo's over. Then injectors and a tune. Should make a little bit more than the 210kw he has at the moment

No Greddy dump/front pipe extension. Standard AFM maxing and I didn't want to push past it. I'm happy with what it makes and it pulls like a f**king train all the way to redline. Thinking of going Nismo AFM later and playing with the cam gears a bit more to make it more responsive, while making a bit more power.

Which is what I don't have. Need to sort out a big 4" high flow cat or something.

You should be into the 300s with 19psi

That would be choking your setup and a quick simple install and retune and car will feel

Even better

  • 1 month later...

Okay, bumping up this old thread!

-9's look like the best for the response.

However, if someone was to go -5's and threw in some Tomei Type R cams, would we still be talking about this huge lag?

I'm pretty new to this, but I would think a set of cams built for response could indeed reduce this lag? Maybe even Mine's cams hehe

You simply won't be able to to put cams in to combat the size of the turbos when talking about those two choices. Yes that big difference in lag will always be there although you may reduce it by a bit It's not going to go away completely and won't ever be equal between the two turbo choices

A set of -9's and low duration cams would be heaps for the street.

However, if someone was to go -5's and threw in some Tomei Type R cams, would we still be talking about this huge lag?

Larger cams will not magically give you 500rpm better response on the street or on/off throttle.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...