Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Front Sway Bars

QLDR31

By QLDR31,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

RSVFOURUK Collaborator

RSVFOURUK

Posted
Posted (edited)
I think my swaybar bushes are stuffed on the front.

Something rattles when I go over bumps.

Does anyone know if R33 GTR have the same ones?

I have fitted whiteline swaybars to both front and rear and used the ones designated to fit a 33GTR

Front ones fit perfectly and the rears fit but the "bend" in the rear sway bar appears to be very close to the mounting to the body and looks like it may damage the bushes. This may be because the rear track on the stagea is wider.

However two years on they are still functioning fine and bushes look exactly as they dd when we fitted them

Car is a series one RS Four

Edited by RSVFOURUK
M I K E Mentor

M I K E

Posted
Posted (edited)

yep. as above.

the front is the same as r33gtr but the stagea rear is about 50mm wider. you can run the rear on stagea but the end links won't be verticle

quick edit: you can also run s14/15 rear sway bar but it will also be too narrow

Edited by M I K E
  • 1 month later...
BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Car Torque in SA have had custom rear bars made to suit C34 Stagea RS4 - see my thread for info, but the GT-R bar really doesn't fit properly in the rear (I couldn't make it fit at all - it was too narrow to mount to the body).

M I K E Mentor

M I K E

Posted
Posted

should fit rs4 rear, at least alexcim had a gtr rear swaybar fitted to his old stag. there are pics somewhere on here if you search hard enough showing pics of the swaybar link angles etc and a bit of a discussion about it. don't know what effect it has on performance (if any) though

  • 1 month later...
QLDR31 Community Regular

QLDR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I ended up not needing the bushes.

I just had to tighten up one of the links. No more rattles over bumps :P

I could sell the SuperPro D bushes and Nolethane Adjustable links for the Stagea or R33 GTR front sway bar at a discount if anyone wants them ?

Best contact is: [email protected]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...