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Manual Boost Controller = Boost Tee = Bleed Valve. If you're going to buy one, get the one Kris recommended: Turbotech. Cheap and very reliable.

dont like manual boost controllers....cant tell what your boosting up to until you try it out...recomend proper digital boost controllers....

That's why you start off with it in the factory setting and adjust incrementally, as opposed to just winding it up and letting loose. Will take about 5 adjustments to get it perfect. Turbotech manual boost controllers are fantastic, never had one spike on me, ever.

i bought a manual turbosmart boost controller but dont know how many psi is each click anyone have a rough idea? im guessing all the way to bottom end would be standard boost just wanting to know how many more clicks to 10psi? if anyone knows thanks.

I'm pretty sure if you run am turbo, be prepared to upgrade a lot of things otherwise your standard setup is not going to last long. Most the time its recommended getting a tune done after certain mods. It also depends what power range for a particular turbo. Increasing boost means your fuel:air ratio changes dramatically with the potential of running way too lean.

  • 3 weeks later...
if u run a am turbo but stock other parts except exhaust from the front pipe to the tip, would 14psi hurt?

i still had stock turbo but was running 14 psi with profec 2 boost controller,exhaust,pod filter,front mount and bov and kept getting fuel cuts,pump or injectors weren't keeping up foot flat and was like speed limiter was kicking in at 70-80 k's (well mechenic told me it was fuel system anyway)

if u run a am turbo but stock other parts except exhaust from the front pipe to the tip, would 14psi hurt?

yep. you'd be leaning out and even more so with the aftermarket turbo. would require fuel pump and retune.

there's only so much equipment is designed for, fuel maps aren't designed for large turbos @ 1bar thus lack of fuel = lean.

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  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
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